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Taste
Fuji Japanese Steak, Seafood House
Village at Waugh Chapel
1314 Main Chapel Way
Gambrills, MD
410-721-6880

Japanese cuisine prepared by dazzling samurai chefs is the star attraction at Fuji Japanese Steak, Seafood House. Have a seat at one of the restaurant's "Hibachi" tables-nine chairs around a bar with a built-in, red hot grill-and enjoy a little drama with your dinner.

Fuji's Hibachi meals begin with clear soup and a tangy salad, which you'll enjoy as the chef sets the scene for his performance. It's quite a show, as he slices, dices, juggles an egg on the back of a spatula and torches a stack of onion rings to make a mini flaming volcano, all at lightning speed. As you ooh and aah, your choice of entrees (chicken, steak, filet mignon, shrimp, lobster, seafood or various pairings thereof) will be cooked precisely to order, as will the fried noodles and crispy vegetables that accompany them. Choose from white rice or the special fried rice to complete the meal. Two dipping sauces are served alongside.

If you're one of the growing legion of sushi fans, Fuji has a large and impressive list of offerings. The sushi and sashimi (raw fish) menu lists nearly two dozen varieties, which you can order a la carte or in combination as an entrée. Who's the most adventurous diner in your group? Order him or her an octopus appetizer, eel, or Japanese pickles. Rolls, another house specialty, are a medley of seafood and vegetarian (they come cooked or raw).

The many Polaroid pictures that line the walls show hundreds of happy diners who've enjoyed a meal at Fuji. Another room brightener is the brilliant embroidered kimono that glows near the front of the house. But it's the bursts of orange flame rising from the grills that remind you of the restaurant's namesake, Mt. Fuji. A well-named eatery, indeed.

-Carol Denny