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Portofino Ristorante Italiano
  By Stephanie Avent

Portofino Ristorante Italiano 4 West Dover Street, Easton, MD 21601 (410) 770-9200 Website When to Enjoy: Dinner: Tues.-Sat. 5-9:30 p.m. Expect to Pay: Antipasti: $11-12 Insalata: $7 Pasta: $15-18 Second Piatti: $22.50-32 Wines by the Glass: $6.50-8.50

Easton, Maryland and the small Italian town of Portofino, located on the breathtaking Italian Riviera, have more in common than you might think. Both are considered gems of their regions, rich in art and history, with lovely landscapes, friendly natives, and plenty of interested visitors roaming the streets. Most importantly (at least in our humble opinions), both of these charming destinations also support some of the finest restaurants you will ever have the pleasure of dining in.

Luckily, Mike and I were able to experience elements of both on our latest venture to Easton's Portofino Ristorante Italiano without having to pack our suitcases! The restaurant's founder and co-owner, Rosario Di Pasquale, says his passion for food began at an early age. He grew up in Italy, where he worked as a dishwasher at his uncle's restaurant and later attended culinary school in Genoa as a young man. With over 30 years in the industry (including various stints in Italy, England, the U.S.--his children were brought up in New York City and on cruise ships), Di Pasquale moved to the Eastern Shore and opened Portofino in 2002. It has since become a staple of this culinary hub.

On the night Mike and I visited, Di Pasquale greeted us before we even entered the building. It was an unseasonably mild day, and he was outside chatting with a friend. "Ask Matt for a table by the window!" he said as we opened the door. We quickly discovered that Matt was co-owner Matt De Felice (he came on as a partner in July of 2006), who said hello and happily complied with our seating request. We were handed the drink menu, which had plenty of imported beers (including Italy's Peroni lager) and a great selection of wines by the glass and bottle, all hand-picked by Di Pasquale and De Felice (who is a former wine consultant). We each ordered a glass--Babich Sauvignon Blanc for me (crisp, with strong tropical fruit flavors) and a Cycles Gladiator Pinot Noir (a velvety wine with notes of berry, vanilla, and a hint of spice) for Mike--and our antipasti and sat back to take in our surroundings.

The tables were elegantly dressed in burgundy and white linens that complemented the rich colors of the lush carpet. Tiny bottles of extra virgin olive oil and black pepper grinders sat on each tabletop. A basket of warm bread arrived as well. The walls, dotted with framed prints of Italy, varied between uncovered brick and a warm, sage green paint. The white lace curtains on the windows lent to the restaurant's old-world feel. Overall, the décor was minimalist, but still cozy.

"Buon appetito!" Di Pasquale proclaimed as our antipasti were delivered-Insalata di Polpo ($12) for Mike, and Mozzarella alla Caprese ($12) for me. My dish consisted of a fabulous stack of hearty, ripe tomato slices, sandwiched with thick hunks of mozzarella, fresh basil, and drizzles of olive oil and Balsamic reduction. Yum!

Mike's antipasto was Insalata di Polpo ($12), a baby octopus salad served over warm, chopped fennel with orange segments and a Limoncello (lemon liqueur made in Italy) vinaigrette. Mike reported that the octopus was tender and meaty, and that the citrus flavors of the orange worked nicely with the sweet anise-like flavor of the fennel. We were off to a great start!

Although I was quite tempted to try one of the fresh pasta entrees on the menu, the description of the Brazino alla Genovese ($24.50) won me over--and I wanted to save room for dessert! And so, my second piatti (plate) was two pieces of sautéed rockfish filet served over wilted spinach with a delicate corn and white truffle emulsion. The tasty fish had a very light, crispy brown crust on the outside and was tender and juicy inside. The slight bitterness of the spinach paired well with the buttery sweetness of the corn and light garlic flavor of the truffles. The entrée was quite perfect, in fact.

Mike had the Scaloppine Di Pollo all'Inverno ($23.50), a bright plate of thinly sliced sautéed chicken breast, and beautiful bursts of artichoke hearts, spinach, and roasted red peppers cooked in a light cheese sauce, and topped with fresh parmiagiano regianno shavings. Mike was equally as happy with his meal, and commented on the incomparable quality of simple, unpretentious cooking-something that's often hard to find nowadays.

We chatted with Di Pasquale and De Felice a bit more over espresso and a scrumptious chocolate chip cannoli that came with whipped cream, chocolate drizzles, and plenty of powdered sugar. We were told that Chef William Mahan was responsible for the execution of our fine dishes, and that all three gentlemen work together in the creation of the menu and recipes. Afterwards, we took a stroll downstairs to see the restaurant's lower level, which accommodates larger parties and the overflow of the dinner crowd on busy nights. Mike and I wished our charming hosts farewell at last, and noted that we should return soon for a steamy plate of homemade pasta.

 

Eastern Shore Sneak Peek: R's Americantina
It's Fiesta Time in Stevensville

R's Americantina Open Sun.-Thurs., 11am-11pm; Fri.-Sat., 11am-12pm. 410 Thompson Creek Mall Stevensville, MD 21666 (410) 643-7700 Website

A marriage of brightly colored painted walls and contemporary furnishings makes a visit to R's Americantina a pleasing feast for the eye as well as the appetite. The décor's mood is lively, inviting you in to have a festive time while you enjoy choice Mexican and American fare. Occupying a spacious building near Food Lion in Stevensville, the eatery offers both dine-in and dine-out options-there's curb-side pick up for diners on the go. When you dine in, you'll enter a cavernous dining space connected to a festive cantina. The dining area is stylish, featuring round banquettes, community tables, and plates of a modern square design. Chic (not kitschy) red pepper chandeliers lend a glowing touch. In one corner of the restaurant there's a very thoughtful cell phone booth ("No business. Just personal.") that customers may chat in without the background noise. After you're seated, you'll be served a basket of tri-colored chips accompanied by salsa to enjoy while you browse the menu. The menu offers tempting appetizers, such as chicken wings (Mayan or gringo), Baja lettuce wraps, and chipotle onion rings. Entrée offerings include the house's signature dish, a kiln-fired cantina flat cooked beneath toppings of your choice, which include picante shrimp with chorizo, smoked salmon, barbacoa pork, mac and cheese-more than 20 are available. Tamales, enchiladas, and quesidillas are paired with the side of your choice-spiced up coleslaw, drunken beans, onion rings, french fries or veggies. Steaks, burgers, and ribs are also available. Given the restaurant's vibrant air and proximity to area shops, R's Americantina has mass appeal, drawing commuters in droves for dinner, but also hungry folks who work nearby for lunch. Daily specials, live entertainment of Saturday nights, and all non-smoking. Call ahead for seating or to have an order ready to be carried out to your car when you arrive.