Eastern Shore Restaurant Buzz | June 2008
By Brent Lewis
It always comes back to family.
Hyser’s Soda Shop has been casting a meaningful presence in its Cambridge neighborhood since the 1930s. Arizonian Maria Viether bought the corner location sight unseen in 2007 and, after extensive renovations, she and daughters Sarah Viether and Kristie McAdoo reopened the Locust Street landmark diner earlier this year. Except for the modest storefront and hand-painted green sign with romantic overtones that’s been hanging outside since before World War II, it would be easy to mistake Hyser’s for one of the neighboring single family-homes or small apartment buildings. Inside, the vibe is a pleasant mix of comfort food-fueled nostalgia and gregariousness. Sarah, an enthusiastic people person, says, “It’s a family business. The people here have made us feel very welcome.” French toast and home fries are all-day breakfast specialties. If the side salads that come with all sandwiches taste like someone’s grandmother’s special recipes, that’s because they are. Hand-dipped ice cream treats provide a classic soda fountain finish.
Pickles Deli on Centreville’s Water Street serves breakfast and lunch, and recently doubled its size. The restaurant’s new sit-down half is decorated with Queen Anne’s County High School Lions sports memorabilia and offers display space for other such souvenirs. Pickles also has begun staying open on Fridays until 8 p.m., with fun distractions like foosball, Pac-Man, and a jukebox. The Queen Anne sandwich is the special triple-decker club, and the Lions’ Pride features roast beef, melted provolone, and horseradish sauce. School spirit and family fun are on the menu at Pickles.
On the other side of town, Hillside Steak & Crab House has been remodeled and is open for business. A long-time county seat landmark, Hillside is brighter and more spacious now, and the menu’s been upgraded to feature dishes like fajitas and artichoke dip. Chesapeake Bay standards like crabs, cherrystone clams, and oysters are, of course, still available. Owner-managers Dave and Kelly Chenaud are part of a proud family tradition in the service industry, and even prouder of their restaurant’s new look. Keep an eye on the weekend music schedule as well-known regional bands are being added all the time.
Hayden’s Alley Coffee Shop closed after four successful years. Owner Rhonda Singletary, who had a great run at the popular downtown Centreville coffee shop, is getting married- the shop will be missed by its regulars.
Brewing on Island Time is a new specialty coffee drive-thru business that opened in Chester at Exit 39B on Route 50 West, otherwise known as Chester Station Road. The barista grinds coffee on site and the venue offers many specialty drinks for both locals and travelers headed across the big water. Humorist Flash Rosenberg is quoted as saying, “I believe humans get a lot done, not because we're smart, but because we have thumbs so we can make coffee.”
And there have been some changes in the Kent County family of restaurants.
Chestertown’s Reiley’s on the River closed in March. Doug O’Dell, a principal owner, says they just got caught in a price squeeze. “Rising energy costs and the increasing costs for supplies” were met with the limits of the restaurant’s location and design. O’Dell and his wife Judy, along with their son and chef Tom Pizzica, still operate High Street’s esteemed Imperial Hotel, which, O’Dell notes, “is a completely different business model.” Chef Pizzica is a graduate of the California Culinary Academy and has worked at the Campton Place Hotel’s four-star restaurant and at Wolfgang Puck’s Postrio, both in San Francisco.
Over on Cannon Street, where locals and boaters used to frequent the former Old Wharf Inn, native Kent County resident Jeffrey Carroll, along with Jenn Donisi and catering chef Bradley Schultz, opened The Fish & Whistle. Having closed the Old Mill Bakery & Café in March, Carroll and his partners have renovated and reorganized one of Kent County’s most scenic dining spots. In a town notorious for scant late-night dining choices, one of the coolest changes is a bar menu that serves until midnight.
brent lewis
jun 08
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