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Les Folies
2552 Riva Rd., Annapolis
410-573-0970

Exceptionally fine food with authentic French flair is the specialtie de maison at Les Folies Brasserie. When co-owner Alain Matrat welcomes you to his Riva Road establishment, you'll hear just a hint of his native Lyon in his voice-a promise of good things to come.

Les Folies has a spacious, uncrowded feel, and the tiled floors, stucco walls and vases of fresh flowers lend a Mediterranean charm. The tables (on two levels) are robed in Provencal-prints with white linen toppers, and framed Art Deco posters add bright splashes of color.

Co-owner and Chef Jean-Claude Galan oversees an extensive, mouth-watering menu brimming with traditional French favorites. Offerings like mussels, escargot, onion soup, a signature fruits de mer platter and a plentiful selection of meats and seafood will have you lingering over the list of temptations. Fortunately, there's a basket of fresh bread and a tub of sweet butter to ease you through the process. Desserts? Soufflés made to order, crème brulée, tarte Tatin, and other irresistibles. And the wine list is outstanding.

Dinner is served daily, but Les Folies is a popular spot for luncheon, available Monday through Friday. Appetizers, sandwiches (try the croque monsieur), salads, or an entrée that just might take the place of dinner are some of the many mid-day options.

If you're longing for a taste of the Continent, but a trip to Europe is beyond your budget, Les Folies Brasserie could be just the ticket. It's has all the flavor of Paris-and you can be there in time for tonight's dinner.

-Carol Denny