Search Site

 

To Market, to Market

Farmers' Markets Offer Fresh Food Finds and More!

 

Summer is here, with the promise of sweet corn and tantalizing tomatoes. For anyone who cares about fresh produce, it's time to head to the area's farmers' markets.

 

What's Old is New Again . . . Sort of

The farmers' market, with its open-air stalls and rustic facilities, seems like an old-timey sort of establishment. With our ingrained familiarity with shrink-wrap and bar codes, the idea of patronizing a farmer directly rather than hitting the produce aisle of the supermarket seems quaint and old-fashioned.

But really, farmers' markets haven't been around very long. Bobi Crispens, coordinator of the Anne Arundel County farmers' market on Riva Road and Harry Truman Parkway in Annapolis , has been with the market all but one of its 26 years of operation. As she proudly proclaims, “We're the oldest continuously operating market in the state of Maryland .”

All of the farmers' markets throughout the state are independently run and determine for themselves what can and cannot be sold at the market. At the Annapolis market, that means everything must be produced in Anne Arundel County . Now that's local.

Thinking in Food Miles

The term food miles made it onto the New York Times 's list of buzz words for 2006. It refers to the distance food has traveled to make it to your plate. What's the big deal about local produce? Insisting on local food can seem like a bit of food snobbery, like exclusive upscale restaurant menus touting vegetables and meats by the name of their local producers. But choosing local produce can have a great number of repercussions that should interest more than just gourmands.

The Leopold Center for Sustainable Agriculture at Iowa State University has calculated some thought-provoking numbers for produce grown in the continental United States that then arrived by truck at the Chicago Terminal Market, an international wholesale produce market. Here's a quick list of items and the miles they traveled to Chicago , long before they'd reach your plate in Maryland :

Apples 1,555

Blueberries 675

Broccoli 2,095

Cabbage 754

Cucumbers 731

Peaches 1,674

Peppers (bell) 1,261

Squash 781

Tomatoes 1369

All of the foods listed above are available, in season, from Maryland farms. So what's the advantage of having your broccoli travel only 20 miles versus 2000? Well, the easiest answer is freshness.

As Crispens puts it, “Produce at the market is just hours from the field, picked when it's ready to be picked, not when it's ready to be shipped with the hope that it will ripen along the way. It's at its height nutritionally and for flavor.”

But other arguments for buying locally arise when we think about how our food is transported to us:

Buying from local farms uses less energy. All that transportation (and refrigeration while shipping) requires fossil fuels.

Local farms limit the stresses of suburban sprawl. Farmland can act as a buffer against all that concrete pouring out around us.

Local farms are Bay friendly. While certified organic farms are still the minority in these parts, small farms use less synthetic fertilizer and pesticide than industrial farms because those are expenses that can cut deeply into narrow profit margins.

Local produce is more secure and cleaner. Large food distribution centers could be easy targets for bioterrorists. Pathogens like E. coli OH157:H7 have more time to grow on lengthy voyages.

Local produce keeps your food dollars in the local economy. The money you're spending on that lettuce from California ? Most of it won't stay here.

Local produce promotes biodiversity. Ever seen heirloom winesap apples at the supermarket? How about ramps, also known as wild leeks? Local farmers grow a much wider variety of plants than grocery stores normally provide.

Local produce relies on local, fairly paid labor. To get downright political, one could even argue that if Americans depended more on local produce than on industrial farms thousands of miles from their homes, then illegal immigration would be much less of an issue.

Confessions of a Local Food Lover

While it might prove difficult for the average Maryland family to eat only local food all year long, local farmers' markets provide plenty of choices for fantastic produce three seasons of the year.

Last year, after reading about a couple in Vancouver who decided to live for a year on food and drink grown within a 100-mile radius of their home (a book by Alisa Smith and James MacKinnon on their experience is due out this spring, see http://100milediet.org), I challenged myself to buy local produce as much as possible. So, in addition to buying a share in a community supported agriculture (CSA) program, I hit the Annapolis farmers' market religiously. If I could buy a fruit or veggie there, I wouldn't buy it in the grocery store.

Besides consistently having the highest quality produce my family has ever had, we also learned a valuable lesson. Because we were eating almost entirely foods that were in season, they became precious. We couldn't bear to waste those gorgeous purple heirloom tomatoes in the summer or the tender stalks of asparagus in the spring. And by fall, we were bona fide fans of leafy greens.

Come winter, we were back in the grocery store, and a bit disappointed at the selection. I also found myself wanting to pluck asparagus out of my fellow shoppers' carts and say, “It's January! Do you really think this asparagus from Argentina is going to taste like anything?” I managed to keep my mouth shut. I did have Costa Rican bananas in my cart, after all.

This year, I hope to reach the level of putting foods away for winter by canning or freezing, an excellent way to preserve peak flavors. As one farmer told me as he sold me a can of his peaches this fall, “In February, you can come in from a morning of shoveling snow, open up a can of peaches, and you'll swear it's July.”

To Market, to Market

A few grocery stores in the area do sell some local produce. The Maryland Department of Agriculture even has programs to help farmers get their produce into supermarkets.

But really, the farmers' market is a must-have experience for all of us. Go to your local market. Get to know your farmers. Learn the stories they have to tell, like how one farmer is growing grapes from vines his grandmother planted 80 years ago, and another farmer works his land to raise money for his church while providing work experience for the youths in the congregation. Bring your kids so they'll learn that food doesn't sprout from Styrofoam trays. Visit with friends and neighbors. Go to the market and find your community.

Health editor Bridget Avila is an enthusiastic chef who loves fresh vegetables.

Where to Find Your Local Market

Check the Maryland Department of Agriculture's Web site for more information on farmers' markets: www.mda.state.md.us . The Department of Agriculture also distributes brochures with information on markets statewide. You can find these brochures in public libraries. Market contacts listed below can also provide information on dates of operation.

( Linda two versions of listing- for Eastern Shore please put the Anne Arundel county listings in this section last)

Anne Arundel County

Anne Arundel County Farmers' Market
Annapolis : Riva Road & Harry S. Truman Parkway

Contact: Bobi Crispens (410) 987-6034

Deale Farmers' Market
Cedar Grove United Methodist Church Parking Lot
Contact: Bill Morris (410) 867-9162

Glen Burnie Town Center Farmers' Market
Central Ave and Platzer Lane — Anne Arundel County Parking Lot
Contact: Lisa Barge (410) 222-7410

Piney Orchard Farmers' Market
Odenton: Stream Valley Drive off Rt. 170
Piney Orchard Community and Visitors Center Parking Lot
Contact: Bill Morris (410) 867-9162

Severna Park Farmers' Market
Ritchie Highway (Rt. 2) & Jones Station Road
Contact: Anita Robertson (410) 827-9192

South River Colony Farmers” Market (new market)
Main Street in South River Colony, Routes 2 and 214
Contact: Barbara Davis (443) 203-0738

 

Caroline County

Denton 's Farmers' Market
St. Luke's United Methodist Church ( Franklin St. & 5 th Ave. )
Contact: Leanne Allen (410) 479-2050

 

Kent County

Chestertown Farmers' Market
Park Row at the Fountain Park
Contact: Owen McCoy (410) 639-7217

 

Queen Anne's County

Centreville Farmers' Market
100 Court House Square on N. Commerce St.

Contact: Ed Parry (410) 758-1291

Talbot County

Easton Farmers' Market
Parking lot off Harrison Street
Contact: Carolyn Jaffe (410) 820-8822

St. Michaels "FRESHFARM" Market
Muskrat Park on the St. Michaels Harbor : Corner of Willow St. & Green St.
Contact: Elizabeth Beggins (410) 745-3457


Community Supported Agriculture (CSA)

Direct Buys from the Farm

CSA farms connect farmers and consumers through a process in which consumers become subscribing members who financially support the farms in advance for crops expected each season. Then, each week of the season, members collect their “boxes” of produce at a pickup site.

Clagett Farm, Upper Marlboro, MD

Raises vegetables in an environmentally sensitive manner on 14 acres of Chesapeake Bay Foundation's Clagett Farm in Upper Marlboro, Maryland . Every week for 6 months, we distribute at least half of our produce to low-income neighborhoods in Washington , D.C. , and the other half to our 125 members through a marketing system called Community-Supported Agriculture (CSA). Additionally, From the Ground Up uses volunteers in the vegetable production and educates them about the connections between agriculture and social justice.
Web site:   http://www.clagettfarm.org/
e-mail: clagettfarm@cbf.org

Future Harvest-CASA is a network of farmers, agricultural professionals, landowners, and consumers living and working in the Chesapeake region. Future Harvest-CASA promotes profitable, environmentally sound and socially acceptable food and farming systems that work to sustain communities.
Web site:   http://www.futureharvestcasa.org
e-mail: fhcasa@verizon.net
phone:  (410) 604-2681

Address: 106 Market Court
Stevensville , MD 21666
Homestead Farm, Centreville , MD

Farm grows organically because they can't imagine doing it any other way. Items available includeorganic vegetables, fresh free-range eggs, and organic chickens . . .
Web site:   http://freshorganicvegetables.com
e-mail: info@freshorganicvegetables.com

Address: 115 Corsica Street
Centreville , MD 21617

Jug Bay Market Garden, Upper Marlboro, MD

Jug Bay Market Garden is a small certified organic farm in Upper Marlboro, Maryland . They offer a CSA that delivers weekly to the Capitol Hill area and the Bowie farmers' market and offers pickup at the farm. Members receive 22 weeks of seasonal vegetables, berries, and herbs beginning the first week in June. Each share is large enough for two adults. For additional information, or to receive a brochure, call (301) 627-6211.
Web site:   http://www.jugbaymarketgarden.com/
e-mail: jugbay@verizon.net
phone:  (301) 627-6211

Address: 10508 Croom Road
Upper Marlboro , MD 20772

 

The Man Behind the Farmer Markets

When Tony Evans came to Maryland in 1961 as a reporter for United Press International, he couldn't have known that he'd end up coordinating the establishment of farmers' markets across the state. But he was born into a farm community in Pennsylvania , and his farm experience landed him a job doing public relations for the state's Department of Agriculture, which soon led to a position doing marketing for the department.

For the last 10 years before he retired in 2003, he was the coordinator of the Agriculture Department's Farmers' Market Program, and he's helped nurture markets all over the state. “We went from twenty-one to seventy-five markets in 10 years, and when I left there was at least one market in every county in the state.”

Evans and his colleagues fostered the development of new markets by securing market sites, and insurance; performing market analyses; and providing advertising for the markets.

As a retiree, he still works occasionally as a consultant for farmers' markets around the state, and he's still passionate about the benefits of the markets. “If farmers can sell retail, then they make more money, and they're more likely to stay on the farm,” he says. “That's a benefit to everyone as more farm land disappears. And it's a community activity with ancient historical roots. People have always gone to markets to shop and to interact with their community.”


What to Expect and When

Spring: greens, scallions, radishes, chard, spring onions, beets, asparagus, strawberries, peas, broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, bedding plants, herbs, hanging baskets, potted plants, baked goods, crafts

Summer: tomatoes, sweet and hot peppers, melons, beans, summer squash, cucumbers, peaches, blackberries, green beans, crowder peas, raspberries, blueberries, onions, apples, corn, plums, nectarines, grapes, beets, chard, cut flower bouquets, jams and jellies, homemade flavored vinegars and oils, crafts, baked goods

Fall: raspberries, winter squash, lettuce, greens, pumpkins for eating and decorating, mums, onions, potatoes, apples, pears, sweet potatoes, beets, turnips, rutabagas, apple cider, canned peaches, ornamental corn, baked goods, crafts