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Old Stein Inn
1143 Central Ave., Edgewater
410-798-6807

The Old Stein Inn is "echt Deutsch"-the real thing. It's a family-owned and operated German-American restaurant that feels genuine from the moment you walk in the door, with a gemutlich bar, cozy dining areas accented with lace curtains, and mile-long list of beers. Equally authentic is the restaurant's outdoor Biergarten, a spacious, tiled patio where umbrella-covered tables and outdoor heaters invite diners to enjoy the open air.

It's a good idea to arrive thirsty. Lager, dopplebock, pilsner, cherry Lambic, weiss bier and more-Old Stein is a beer drinker's paradise, with bottled and draft selections for every taste. There's a German-flavored wine list, too, with plenty of choices. But that doesn't mean that the cuisine takes a back seat. Mike Selinger, son of founder Karl, ensures that the food offerings are every bit as good as the libations. Appetizers include several wurst dishes, a locally-renowned bier crab dip, potato pancakes and spatzle, as well as a variety of soups. Entrées range from schnitzels to sauerbraten, with wurst platters (combine any two of your choice) and a sampler platter. Children and "Classic American" eaters have their own menu sections.

The restaurant recently took a star turn on the Food TV network, with a segment called "Critics' Picks." And the Selingers are planning major improvements to accommodate their growing business. So plan a visit now. If you're lucky, lively dinner music from Sylvia and her accordion or the Heimat Echo Band will add a rousing touch to your experience.

-Carol Denny