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Julia's
122 N. Commerce Street, Centreville
410-758-0471

There's no better place to savor the charm of Centreville's main square than a window table at Julia's, the town's lovely new restaurant for discriminating diners.

Julia's, just half-an-hour from Annapolis, offers a fine view of the stately county courthouse, and its spacious proportions and pressed-tin ceiling echo the feel of the town's many restored Victorians. Less than a year old, it's already a magnet for Eastern Shore patrons, who fill the café to capacity even on weekday evenings.

With a menu described as "innovative American with an Asian flair," Julia's specializes in fresh regional seafood and classics like rack of lamb, filet mignon and bouillabaisse. There's luscious whole lobster served with orange sauce and gulf shrimp, several variations of tuna and salmon, and other nightly additions. The selection of mouth-watering appetizers reads like a dinner menu in itself. Wines are available by the glass and the half-bottle, and there's also a full bar.

Service is outstanding-attentive and gracious-and a big part of Julia's success. Owner and chef David Clark, who runs Julia's with his wife, Valerie, seems to have all the ingredients in place for a long and successful run. (He happens to be a former student of Gilles Syglowski, a chef, culinary instructor and What's Up Annapolis reviewer.) And who is Julia, you might ask? Her pictures (both photos and paintings) are displayed in several areas of the café. She's a German shepherd/chow mix-the owners' beloved pet.

-Carol Denny