All a Glitter: Tips on buying a diamond
By Nadja Maril
“A kiss on the lips can be quite sentimental
But diamonds are a girl’s best friend,”
—lyrics from the 1949 musical Gentlemen Prefer Blondes by Julie Styne and Sammy Cahn
Since ancient times men and women have exchanged rings as tokens of affection. The ring was placed on the fourth finger, according to the bishop and chronicler Isidore of Seville (circa 560-636), “as a sign of mutual fidelity because a certain vein is said to flow from thence to the heart.”
Americans buy approximately fifty percent of the world’s diamond jewelry, and many of those pieces of jewelry are engagement rings.
With the great variety of diamonds available from a variety of sources, purchasing a lovely diamond ring can become a daunting task. What do you need to look for when selecting a diamond? Remember the four C’s—carat, clarity, color, and cut. Ask questions, listen, and examine carefully.
- You want to know the carat weight. One carat equals .2 grams. The greater the weight of an individual stone, the greater the value. Salespeople will sometimes combine the weight of all the diamonds in a piece of jewelry when describing it to a customer. This is misleading. Two carats of diamonds in a ring is not the same as a 2-carat diamond. Make certain you hear the difference.
- Clarity refers to the existence of inclusions, such as bits of non-diamond material, bubbles, blemishes, and scratches. While most of these inclusions should not be visible to the naked eye, they should be visible by studying the stone under a 10X magnifying loupe. The fewer inclusions, the more brilliant the stone, adding value.
- Unless you specifically intend to purchase a blue or pink diamond (they do exist), you are looking for a diamond as colorless as possible, because that will enable more light to pass through your gem. The Gemological Institute of America developed a diamond color grading system in the 1950s. It starts with D and continues to Z. D, E, and F are colorless diamonds, while S through Z have light color. When you look at a diamond in a setting, the color of the metal (yellow gold vs. white gold) influences the way the color appears to your eye. To be properly graded, the diamond needs to be taken out of its setting.
- The cut of a diamond refers to its reflective qualities. The cut is described as Ideal, Premium, Very Good, Good, Fair, or Poor.
Always view your prospective diamond purchase on a white background, which will reflect its true qualities. A black background will make it appear more brilliant. Ask to view the diamond under magnification.
A diamond certificate issued by the Gemological Institute of America or the American Gemological Society will accurately describe a diamond and is a useful document to verify the soundness of your purchase. This is different from an appraisal, which places a value on the diamond. Appraisals can vary depending on time and place.
Ask your jeweler about where the diamond you are considering purchasing was mined and purchased. In April 2003, President Bush passed a bill requiring all U.S. diamond retailers to buy diamonds from manufacturers who have documentation warranting that the merchandise was obtained through legitimate channels. Conflict diamonds are diamonds sold to fund terrorist groups and rebellions that kill and maim innocent civilians. You may want to do some research to decide if you want to stay away from conflict diamonds.
If you have diamonds you have inherited, another option is to have one reset in a ring that you like. A jeweler can help you decide on an appropriate setting to help your stone look its best.
Different Cuts Can Make Diamonds Look Different
Today diamonds are precisely cut to maximize the light reflected by the stone’s facets. A diamond cut in the modern brilliant cut has 57–58 polished surfaces.
While the round brilliant cut is the most popular, there are several other cuts available to suit a variety of tastes. The oval cut, as its name implies, is the oval version of the round cut. The pear cut takes on the shape of a pear, and the marquis cut is shaped into an elongated point at both ends.
The emerald cut has graduated rectangular tables and has fewer surfaces for refracting the light. Thus, while popular with colored stones, it is not widely used for diamonds.
Until the early 1900s, diamonds were hand cut to maximize the gem’s carat weight, and do not have the same appearance as modern cut diamonds. Antique diamond cuts include:
- Rose Cut—flat on the bottom, the shape resembles the petals of a rosebud.
- Old Mine—characterized by a cushion shaped girdle and high crown, it has a deep pavilion. (Also referred to as old miner, Peruzzi cut, and triple-cut brilliant).
- Old European—the girdle is circular, the crown is heavy, and the table is very small.
- Single Cut—features eight facets around the crown and eight around the pavilion.
More: Your man already gave you a ring? Read about wedding preparations on Managing Editor Stephanie Avent's Weddings Blog, "The Perpetual Bride."
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