Not Napa. Not Bordeaux. Maryland.

by

Culture

How science, site selection, and stubborn growers are transforming the state’s wine reputation—one vintage at a time

Before he planted a single vine on Kent Island, Mark Cascia built satellites. The Connecticut farm kid turned aerospace engineer had spent years working on NASA missions when an aerospace company sent him to France, a move that would later change his career trajectory. 

Weekends spent wandering wine regions from Bordeaux to Spain rekindled his agricultural roots and sparked a desire to make his own wine. It also cemented his belief in an old French adage: “All good wine-growing regions must see water.” So, he looked for it—in Maryland. 

From Sweet to Serious

Maryland’s wine story stretches back centuries, with the first recorded production dating to 1648. Thirteen years later, Governor Charles Calvert planted 200 acres of European grapevines along the east bank of the St. Mary’s River—an ambitious early effort to establish viticulture in the colony.

The leap from colonial experiment to commercial winemaking took much longer. The state’s first winery, Boordy Vineyards, opened in Baltimore in 1945 before relocating to Hydes in 1980. That milestone marked the beginning, but it would take decades for a true industry to take hold.

“Grape-growing and winemaking in Maryland has blossomed,” says Judy Crow of Crow Vineyard and Winery in Kennedyville, but “it is still considered new and growing.”

For a long time, Maryland vineyards have been thought to produce mediocre bottles, much too sweet to be taken seriously. Despite decades of steady progress in the vineyard and cellar, that reputation lingers, even if it no longer reflects what’s in the glass.

“Geologically and climatically, we have some of the best conditions in the eastern U.S. to grow quality wines,” says Joseph Fiola, PhD, a professor at University of Maryland Extension and the state’s viticulturalist. “With what we have learned about growing fine wine under our conditions in the last 30 years or so, we have made great strides and are already producing wines that compete on the world stage.” 

The Science of Site

Maryland is often called “America in Miniature,” a nod to its geological diversity packed into its relatively small area. Cascia prioritized proximity to water when establishing Cascia Vineyards & Winery in Stevensville, but Maryland’s viticultural strengths extend far beyond its shorelines. Maryland’s four wine regions each bring a distinct agricultural profile to the glass: 

  • The Piedmont Plateau, just north of Baltimore, contains most of the state’s vineyards, stretching from Frederick’s rolling foothills to the Chesapeake Bay headwaters. Its rich soils and balanced climate make it a natural hub for grape growing. 
  • On the Eastern Shore, fertile ground and mild conditions support steady vine growth, 
  • In the Southern Plain, former tobacco fields have steadily transitioned into vineyards that grow grapes well-suited for its warmer temperatures.
  • Farther west, the Western Mountain region presents a tougher environment—long winters and shorter growing seasons—but its slate-based, well-drained soils, and cool mountain breezes allow cold-hardy varieties to thrive.

As such, success in Maryland winemaking depends less on where you plant than how well you understand the site. In the Western Mountain region, for example, wind exposure and a higher elevation affect nearly every vineyard decision at Big Cork Winery, says Vice President and General Manager Keith Morris.

Geography may shift from mountains to marshland, but one constant binds Maryland’s vineyards together.

“Maryland is distinctly different from the arid ‘new world’ wine-growing regions” in the western U.S. because of its humid-continental climate, Fiola explains. “This makes us very similar to the famous ‘old world’ wine-growing areas of Italy, France, and Spain.” 

As such, he says, the grape cultivars grown and the style of wines made are comparable to the bottles coming from Europe.

Survival of the Fittest

Choosing what grapes to plant in Maryland begins with both preference and pragmatism. When Sarah O’Herron and her husband, Ed Boyce, broke ground on Black Ankle Vineyards in Mount Airy, they asked just one question: What do we want to drink?

“For the most part, it’s only dry wine,” O’Herron says. “I don’t know how to make strawberry wine because I’ve never had one I liked. I wouldn’t know if it was good when it was done.”

Next came the harder question: What grapes are realistic to grow? Certain cultivars do well state-wide, Fiola says, including Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Chambourcin, Vidal Blanc, and, more recently, Albariño. Others are better-suited for specific parts of the state: Barbera, for example, is known for retaining acidity in warm Italian regions and excels in the hotter Eastern Shore and Southern Plains. 

Figuring out what grapes do best means taking risks. Black Ankle did just that by planting Syrah and Grenache. The former did well; the latter decidedly did not.  “All of the Grenache died,” she says. “At the beginning, there were only so many sacrifices we could afford.”

Over time, Cascia learned what thrives on Kent Island—and what doesn’t. He planted an American varietal, Norton, after learning that it’s not only indigenous to the Chesapeake Bay region, but specifically to its islands. However, he pulled out the Pinot Noir vines after the grapes ripened too early and lost acidity in summer heat. Syrah grapes were next to go because it didn’t result in enough fruit. 

“On the East Coast, we shoot for two to three tons per acre,” Cascia explains. “The Syrah yielded about a quarter-ton.” 

Finally, and perhaps most painfully, Cascia nixed his favorite grape, Zinfandel. After 22 years of fiddling with the plants, he finally accepted that the vines would never provide a good harvest. When it comes to learning what works, he says, “there’s no real quick way to do this.” Vines take years to reveal their character.

Meanwhile at University of Maryland Extension, Fiola tests promising newcomers in the name of research. He imports cultivars from regions with climates and soils similar to Maryland’s, then evaluates them through small-batch winemaking trials. In 2025 alone, he conducted nearly 100 individual fermentations.

Whites such as Colombard, Verdelho, Verdejo, and Roussanne have shown potential, along with reds including Teroldego, Tempranillo, Regent, Gamaret, and Sagrantino. 

“Being able to demonstrate superior viticulture qualities that translate into fine wines is very important in convincing growers to plant new, regionally adapted cultivars,” Fiola says.

The University of Maryland now offers a Fermentation Science degree and trains graduate students and interns for careers in the field—evidence that the industry’s future is being cultivated as carefully as its vines.

Environmental Pressures

If site selection and varietal choice lay the groundwork, environmental pressure tests it every season. In recent years, Maryland growers have seen extreme winter lows followed by relatively mild seasons, stretches of intense summer heat mixed with unusually cool growing periods, and drought interrupted by short bursts of excessive rainfall, Fiola explains. Compared with other wine-growing regions, the shifts have been less dramatic, but growers now plan for swings in temperature and rainfall that would have been unusual a generation ago.

“What is predictable and consistent is the unpredictability of the weather,” Fiola says. 

Maryland’s humid climate also creates persistent disease risk, so Fiola works closely with experienced growers, as well as plant pathologists, entomologists, and weed experts, to address fungal diseases, invasive insects, and vineyard floor management.

A few years back, stink bugs wreaked havoc, but the spotted lanternfly now poses the greatest threat. O’Herron predicts the vineyards will survive these pests, as they have had so many other intruders in the past. 

“No predator knows what they are or what to do with them, so there’s a huge population explosion,” O’Herron says. “Then a brave bird takes a bite, and eventually things tend to even out.”

From Soil to Bottle

In Maryland, improving wine quality has gone hand in hand with a deeper commitment to how the land is both farmed and preserved. When Morris moved two years ago to Maryland from Sonoma, California, where he ran a major wine operation, he did so because “that smaller-lot, more bespoke winemaking was what I wanted to be involved in.” 

That philosophy is playing out across the state in different ways. For example, Chesapeake Manor Vineyard in Stevensville grew out of Dorie Passen’s father’s decision to transition from decades of corn and soybean farming to grapes in 2018. When they had a surplus of the crop in 2023, “we became curious about the quality of wine our fruit could produce,” Passen says. 

The vineyard industry is a great example of agricultural diversification in the state, says Kevin Atticks, Maryland’s secretary of agriculture and former executive director of the Maryland Wineries Association. 

“First, it’s a perennial crop—you put it in, and you’re not pulling it out. You’re not disturbing the soil for potentially three to four decades,” he explains. “That’s good for land preservation and sustainability.”

At Black Ankle, sustainable farming has always been a priority. During their research, O’Herron says they noticed that many of the great vineyards around the world work with as many organic or biodynamic practices as they can, even if they’re not officially certified as such. 

“Why are they making better wines? There are all kinds of theories, but at the end of the day, it comes down to careful growing,” she says. “If you’re going to move toward fewer chemical inputs and less chemical intervention, you’re going to end up with a plant that is more closely connected to its growing environment and to the soil it’s in—and it’s going to make more interesting wine.”

However, all aspects of viticulture affect wine quality, Fiola says, pointing to “critical” practices such as matching grape to ground for optimal ripeness, managing canopy light, and timing harvest to capture flavor, structure, and color. Then, he adds, “it is up to the winemaker to get it in the bottle.”

Agritourism as an Economic Engine

What begins in the vineyard doesn’t end there. In total, Maryland’s wine industry is worth $4.28 billion, according to a 2025 study by economic research firm John Dunham & Associates. Its more than 1,000 acres of vineyards have created over 25,000 jobs, spurred 365,000-plus tourist visits, and accounts for more than $1.37 billion in annual wages. 

“It brings incredible economic activity to rural areas,” says Maryland Secretary of Agriculture Kevin Atticks. Visitors who travel to wineries also spend on restaurants, lodging, and retail, giving counties a measurable boost. He points to Frederick County, which has embraced agritourism as part of its economic development strategy, highlighting it as part of the county’s quality-of-life pitch to major employers.

The Maryland Wineries Association also does its part to promote wine-centered tourism in the state, such as debuting a Wine Explorer Pass that encourages visitors to travel across regions and offers discounts and benefits along the way. Large-scale events also serve as entry points, notes Janna Howley, the Association’s executive director. The Maryland Wine Experience each March and the Maryland Wine Festival in June—now in its 42nd year—bring dozens of wineries together, allowing consumers to sample broadly before planning future visits.

For individual wineries, on-site engagement is essential. Tasting rooms, vineyard walks, blending sessions, and wine clubs foster loyalty. At Crow Vineyards, “sharing the story of how a family farm diversified to a prosperous agritourism business…brings us so much joy,” Crow says. 

However, state legislators can do more to promote this burgeoning industry, Big Cork’s Keith Morris says, starting with visiting Maryland’s approximately 100 wineries. 

“I’ve been here for almost two years, and other than Kevin [Atticks], I’ve never met anyone else from the state government,” he shares. “That’s an opportunity. The state needs to see that this isn’t an easy business and help us the way some neighboring states, especially Virginia, are investing.”

In addition to its wine regions, Maryland is home to three established American Viticulture Areas (AVA):

  • The Linganore AVA, which is split over Frederick and Carroll counties. 
  • The Catoctin AVA, which spans Frederick and Washington counties.
  • The Cumberland Valley AVA which covers parts of Pennsylvania and Maryland, with Maryland vineyards located in Washington County.

In these federally recognized regions, at least 85 percent of the grapes must be grown within the area, and the wine must be fully produced in the state where the AVA is located. 

Reassessing Maryland’s Reputation

Maryland has never followed the crowd—the state flag alone proves that. Therefore, successful winegrowing has never been about copying California or Europe. It’s about understanding Maryland—its soils, its humidity, its unpredictability—and letting that identity speak through the glass and the winery.

“The setting is beautiful, and the wine speaks for itself,” Passen says. “But we put a lot of care into creating an experience that feels warm and personal. For guests who are new to Maryland wine, it’s especially rewarding to see their surprise at the quality of the wines. That moment of discovery and validation never gets old.”

Must Visit Vineyards & Wineries

Maryland’s wine industry continues to develop and grow. Within our hyper-local market, there are several excellent vineyards/wineries to visit and enjoy well-crafted wines—specifically within Anne Arundel, Prince George’s, Queen Anne’s, Kent, Talbot, and Dorchester counties, plus other notables a touch further away. 

Great Frogs Winery, Annapolis; greatfrogs.com

The Vineyards at Dodon, Davidsonville; dodonvineyards.com

Thanksgiving Farm Vineyards & Winery, Harwood; thanksgivingfarm.com

Robin Hill Farm & Vineyards, Brandywine; robinhillfarmandvineyards.com

Mark Cascia Vineyards, Stevensville; mcascia.wixsite.com/cascia-vineyards

Chesapeake Manor Vineyard, Stevensville; chesapeakemanorvineyard.com 

Love Point Vineyards & Winery, Stevensville; lovepointvineyards.com

Crow Vineyard & Winery, Kennedyville; crowvineyardandwinery.com

Layton’s Chance Vineyard & Winery, Vienna; laytonschance.com

Big Cork Vineyards, Rohrersville; bigcorkvineyards.com

Black Ankle Vineyards, Mt. Airy; blackankle.com

Boordy Vineyards, Hydes; boordy.com

For a full list of Maryland vineyards and wineries, plus maps and wine trail planning materials, visit Marylandwine.com/wine-trails.

Kelsey Casselbury is a freelance writer based in Odenton, Md., and a former What’s Up? Media food and beverage editor.