Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Annapolis has the very good fortune to be home to several satisfying Mexican eateries. We were happy to find Mi Lindo Cancun Grill and its patio on Forest Drive tucked in a nondescript strip center. You might notice the outside tables with umbrellas and flower boxes, which define the space. Venture inside and, surprise, you’ve entered a very different world! The family-owned Mi Lindo Cancun Grill prides itself on serving dishes from their Mayan homeland and bringing the atmosphere along as well. The furniture is imported from Mexico. A heavy wooden “old world” door opens into dining rooms vibrantly decorated with heavy dark wood chairs upholstered black and deep rich tables. Bright artwork adorns the walls. Although we opted to dine outside, the widely-spaced tables were mostly filled.
The restaurant is a family affair with Fredy Salmoran as owner and lead chef. At one time, Fredy was chef at Giolitti (the well-known Italian eatery near Annapolis Town Center). He ultimately decided to start his own restaurant, Mi Lindo, in 2015. When you’re passionate about food, why stop at just one restaurant? The family also has Señor Chile Cantina (termed your “hot spicy neighbor”) in Arnold and Señor’s Chile in Edgewater.
Mi Lindo hosts an extended happy hour—3 to 7 p.m. on weekdays—for those of us who can’t often break away from work before the customary 5 p.m. conclusion. With $5 margaritas, $3 beers, and several $5 appetizers, the short menu delivers large. We ordered the Nachos with Carnitas. Smaller than a typical nacho platter, this was still far more than you’d expect for a $5 happy hour special. Piled “alto” with crunchy chips, guacamole, plenty of pork, black beans, pickled jalapeno, melted cheese, and sour cream, it was a hit. We tried our best not to devour the entire dish lest we have no appetite for our entrees. In fact, I did find myself cautioning my dining companion, “You’ll spoil your dinner!”
About that margarita and tequila menu—also large. While the happy hour special includes a choice of two margaritas—regular or spicy—we chose to order a specialty margarita from the regular menu. The Mezcal was the perfect and fresh tasting balance of sweet and sour, lime, orange, and just the right amount of smoky mezcal. If you’re a margarita or tequila connoisseur, you’ll want to spend some time on the website before visiting Mi Lindo so you’re ready to order before you’ve arrived. More on that later. And note: at first glance, margaritas might seem pricey, but this was definitely a grande drink.
Not a margarita fan? How about a shot of tequila? Mi Lindo offers multiple brands of tequila, reposado, and anejo varieties, and two mezcals. (For the novice, tequila is technically a mezcal, because it is made from agave; specifically, blue agave. Smoky mezcal by name can be made from more than 30 agaves.)
Interested in another beverage? How about a mojito? Sangria? Jarrito Slushy? Beer, wine, or an interesting mixed drink? Mi Lindo even offers non-alcoholic specialty Mexican drinks, which sound enticing.
Just in case you’re not quite full from your appetizer while you await your entrée, even at Happy Hour, Mi Lindo serves warm tortilla chips and a delightfully spicy salsa to wash down with your drink. We certainly felt like we’d feasted as we looked at the muy extenso menu. Salmon en Mango caught our eye with a pan-seared salmon fillet, topped with mango salsa, two shrimp served over chipotle salsa, and with Mexican mashed potatoes and tortillas. Mole con Pollo is a taste of the traditional Oaxaca mole sauce with at least 15 ingredients. Hailing from family recipes, the sauce is fragrantly dark, contains dark chocolate, and has a touch of sweetness.
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
In Brocheta de Camarones con Fajita, which I chose, one actually gets two different entrees mounded on one piping hot skillet. The four Brochetta style bacon-wrapped jumbo butterflied shrimp were tucked with a strip of jalapeno and queso. For the fajitas, a substantial portion of New York steak was served in large strips over a sizzling pile of sautéed onions and peppers. Separately, a plate of excellent guacamole, pico de gallo, Spanish rice, and black beans came on the side. Tortillas of your choice arrived warm, in their basket. All I can say is whew!
My dining companion considered several meat dishes from among the beef, chicken, and pork offerings and nearly went with the Costilla de Cerdo Verde (stewed pork ribs with tomatillo sauce, nopales, and peas, along with Spanish rice, salad, and tortillas). Note that there are plenty of choices for traditional favorites like quesadillas, chimichangas, burritos, and tacos as well as salads and soups—and a special vegetarian section, the offerings loaded with vegetables.
Ultimately, she chose the Fajita Del Mer—fruits of the sea. Set atop a bed of sautéed, colorful bell and jalapeno peppers that were nicely cooked but still maintained some crunch was a large properly grilled tilapia “steak” garnished by at least four jumbo sea scallops, crispy and browned, and four brocheta style bacon-wrapped jumbo shrimp and queso. How did they get the bacon cooked like that without overcooking the shrimp? A feat difficult to match at home. All this was served with a side of black beans and Spanish rice, and a choice of corn or flour tortillas.
The five-item dessert menu contained the favorites most would expect: Tres Leches, Churros, Fried Ice Cream, and Chocolate Cake. Churro Caribeño would probably be a popular choice for many (it was for us) as it combines the dense chocolate lava cake, which arrives warm, with two churros. Ultimately it masquerades as a large sundae topped with melting vanilla ice cream with caramel and raspberry sauce, whipped cream, and a cherry. And again, it does fit with the large theme.
All things considered, Mi Lindo certainly is worthy of repeat visits, especially for its extensive margarita and tequila menu, not to mention outsized Happy Hour options. And friendly accommodating servers, too. By the way, breakfast is also served here.
Rita Calvert has close to three decades in the food, media production, marketing, and public relations fields. She has created myriad programs, events, cooking sessions on national television for corporations, the stage for cookbooks, and founded the original Annapolis School of Cooking.
