Stephen Buchanan
Osteria 177 | 177 Main Street, Annapolis | 410-267-7700 | osteria177.com
It is evident that there is passion encompassing this Italian cuisine. The Italian word “Osteria” means host, a fitting name with Chef/Owner Arturo Ottaviano, who grew up in Verona in the Veneto region around Venice. He oversees Osteria 177 with careful attention to detail, including the safety protocols for the pandemic. What better way to begin a return to long-missed dining out at our local eateries than an artful Italian feast on Annapolis’ attractive Main Street (at number 177)? We had not known that like many establishments, Osteria does offer some outdoor seating, subject to weather of course. But we were pleased to see their indoor precautions and found white linen-topped tables arranged with generous space between, and staff carefully masked and gloved, with disposable menus replaced each day (all the better to feature the days’ specialties), bottled water only, and condiments like salt and pepper or parmesan cheese provided by our server, rather than on the table. We chose a large booth that felt just right.
The chic interior features a perfect blend of Old World Italian hues with dark woods complemented by modern flare in the choice of chandeliers and Warhol-style prints of prominent stars like Sinatra, Pavarotti, and Pacino. Within the restaurant’s corner location, a bank of windows along one side assures ample yet soft daylight for lunch. Do note that the restrooms are down a flight of stairs, as is common for historic Main Street.
There’s so much to choose from that you might want to peek at the beautiful website with the fish line drawing darting across some pages to start your perusing. Osteria is proud of its “coastal flare” but both northern and southern Italian cuisine are featured and there’s plenty for the pasta and meat lover too, in both traditional straight forward favorites and inventive nouveau styles.
Stephen Buchanan
Osteria’s wine list is weighted heavily by Italian style. There’s a great variety of quality Italian wines from Pino Biancos to Barolos, and of course, Montepulciano, with many others in between. It’s virtually an Italian travelogue. There is a decent selection of American wines as well. My friend chose a glass of 2017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riservo “Ilico” by Illuminati, a good medium-bodied red to complement both the appetizers and entrees, with the wine’s tangy cherry tone and herbal notes.
Very good low salt Tuscan bread paired beautifully with the bright pool of olive oil, sprinkle of Parmesan, and freshly ground black pepper offered. This was almost an appetizer itself as we browsed the lengthy menu.
We began our meal with the Ostriche Alla Fiorentina (Baked Oysters), which were a special for the evening. Fabulous! And we don’t say that lightly with our Chesapeake oyster bounty. The dish included a half dozen plump Mystic oysters, a medium briny variety from Connecticut, all generously topped with sautéed spinach, Sambuca Mornay sauce, provolone, Parmesan cheese, and pancetta—in just the right proportions for these treats.
Stephen Buchanan
Our second cicchetti indulgence: Carpaccio Di Manzo (Beef Carpaccio). Praised as exceptional, we decided on this favorite to share. This allowed for a satisfying mix of meat along with the fish I planned for my entree. Osteria gives this dish a taller architected treatment rather than spreading the presentation on the plate. The lovely platter first layered perky fresh arugula, then a bed of paper-thin slices of aged Angus beef tenderloin, and a coating of large, high-quality Parmesan shavings. The dish was garnished with small capers, one huge caper berry, and sprightly chopped parsley. One half lemon brightened the dish with a squeeze of citrus.
My entree was the buttery Mediterranean sea bass filet, branzino, Filetto di Branzino Imperiale (Italian Seabass). With this dish, one gets a sample of lump backfin crab with the fin fish filet, all in a light beurre blanc sauce. Chef’s vegetable of the evening and potatoes accompany each entree.
Both of us grew up in coastal areas with plenty of seafood and Italian history. So, among many menu temptations, the Cioppino alla Genovese (Mixed Seafood) was a definite winner for nostalgia’s sake. A huge wide-rimmed bowl of fragrant tomato broth came loaded with traditional very fresh favorites: shrimp, calamari, sea scallops, lump crab, clams, and a full bodied firm white fish, all cooked properly by a chef who clearly knew to time the addition of each ingredient so that all would be properly done. After many disappointing renditions elsewhere with plain old tomato herb sauce, this had all the right touches of fresh basil, white wine, and spicy tomato broth. Topped off with two Italian toasts for dipping, it was hard not to finish every last drop, but with dessert on the horizon, it was meant to be saved for the next day’s delicious lunch.
Stephen Buchanan
We decided to end our fine meal with the Italian classic Tiramisu, which is made in house. This light version was served in a small bowl, adorned with a large blackberry and some raspberries. Was that rum we detected on the espresso-soaked ladyfingers? Cappuccino is everywhere these days, but not like this. The steamy fragrant almost bowl-sized cup of smooth coffee (smooth decaf, no less—an art in itself) came with a tall froth of delicious foam. It was an ideal accompaniment to the Tiramisu. No need to stop there as the full dessert menu included special coffee drinks, single malts, cognac, scotch whiskeys, grappa, cordials, and Italian digestives, like the Italian herbal Fernet Branco, which many in Italy use to sooth the system after a lavish meal like ours.
