Café, bistro, Old World ambiance—if this is what you seek in a dining experience, look no further than Main & Market, located along the shuffle of Forest Drive toward the Annapolis Neck peninsula. Though the City’s dining scene has shown signs of life as of late, with several new additions and ethnic nods, Main & Market has successfully offered its three-prong approach to cultural, coastal, and café cuisine for nearly 20 years. Unassuming as you pull into the parking lot within the strip shopping center it’s located, the restaurant (whose catering arm of the company is highly-acclaimed) offers a warm embrace through the front doors, with a vibe that gently reminded me of a breakfast eatery I frequented in Amsterdam during a spring break trip many moons ago (the Pancake Bakery, which is glorious). Or, maybe it was the quaint, glowing parlor in Venice that I conjured. The spirit of a Brooklyn coffee shop can also be felt, or a Chelsea wine bar. You see, Main & Market feels like the culmination of these distinctive atmospheres—all bottled up into a charming dining experience, that can be enjoyed at any time of day, from breakfast through dinner.
Want to have an espresso and chit-chat? (I did, it was excellent). Perhaps a glass of pinot noir and small plates? (There’s bar seating perfect for that). For the full experience, I recommend committing to a multi-course meal, which we did on our most recent visit.
Arriving with my family a day shy of St. Patrick’s on an unseasonably warm March evening, I was in good spirits and appreciated the friendly greeting and prompt seating by the host staff. We had the pick of the room—which features minimalist café tables with wrought iron-framed chairs or cozier booths (we chose the latter)—and settled in. With nary a glance at the menus, our server Chris arrived on cue and took our drink orders—fresh ice teas around and whole milk for the two little ones. If adult beverages are your fancy, Main & Market has a robust list of red and white wines, all served by the glass or bottle. Premium domestic and import beers are also available (had I chosen a brew, I would have selected Newcastle or a Heavy Seas IPA). And all manner of coffee concoctions is brewed, steamed, and pulled inhouse. I needed a jolt, so a single shot of espresso was called upon, served in its tiny, porcelain demitasse. Delicious and perky.
Chris returned and she took our second round of orders—appetizers, from which all options are tantalizing. We were in a surf-and-turf mood—or maybe the menu pushed us in that direction with its range of small plates that made stars out of lump crabmeat, Korean pork, lamb, shrimp, and oysters. We happily chose two starters: Lamb Lollipops and Baked Buffalo and Blue Cheese Oysters. Our main courses would follow suit, selected from a dinner menu that presents a smart division of options into: Main & Market Traditions (think meatloaf, crabcakes, chicken au poivre, herb crusted salmon); Selections (cuts of beef, fish); Small Plates (aforementioned); Short Plates (reduced portions of favorites); Sandwiches (there’s even grilled vegetarian Italian sausage); Salads (all manner and mix of greens, proteins, embellishments); and Pastas (five tempting options that nearly hooked us, including Avery Island Pasta with sautéed bacon, scallops, sweet corn kernels, and green onions finished in a smoked tomato alfredo sauce and tossed with linguini pasta and parmesan cheese). We opted for the Crabcake Short Plate and the Hunter Filet, eager to sample the restaurant’s take on two longtime favorites we reserve for special occasions, whether cooking in or dining out.
Alas, we did not request a cup of the famous Hungarian Mushroom Soup, so this is the obligatory note on that; having been sampled on past visits, this robust concoction is a must-try for first-timers. And I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that you’ll be served a whole loaf of warm sourdough bread upon seating, and butter to accessorize it with—its easy to reach for between dishes, but you’ll want to save your appetite for the good stuff.
Our two children—which I must say were very well accommodated, and behaved themselves somewhat decently—had their sights set on a cheeseburger (selecting cheddar for its crown) and penne pasta (selecting alfredo for its sauce). Each was a homerun—elevated dishes with gourmet quality and enhanced flavor. The beef burger with thick blanket of cheddar on a brioche bun was devoured. And the alfredo sauce for the pasta was a homemade hit—an obvious and delicious bechamel base with Parmesan cheese whisked and melted within. It really was divine simplicity (yes, I sampled and yes, I had to restrain myself).
Frenched and sliced into individual, well…lollipops…the lamb arrived first, as did the piping hot oysters. The lamb was served drizzled with a mint and mustard sauce—a balanced sweet ’n sour approach to taming the lamb’s pronounced flavor. With a touch of grilling, the “pops” were succulent little treats. Delish. The oysters wouldn’t play second fiddle though. Each morsel was served on the half-shell, grilled, and punctuated with a dash of hot pepper sauce and melted crumbles of blue cheese—an unctuous slurp of brine, heat, and earthy creaminess, which made our eyes roll toward heaven. Divine.
Just moments after the finished plates were picked off the table, our main courses were set down. Judging a crabcake is a very individual experience; purists prefer a cake of lump meat with little-to-no filler, bound with mayonnaise/egg, and a dash of Bay seasoning (borderline crab imperial). Others are fans of a 50/50 mix of backfin meat and crushed cracker that hold seasoning and non-traditional ingredients better, allowing for eclectic flavor profiles. I’m not one to stray far from tradition, so the crabcake presented was a pleasing dish that held mostly true to Chesapeake roots with lump and backfin crabmeat, and just-enough filler, altogether accentuated with locally-loved Bay seasoning and parsley. Served with a side salad of fresh arugula, cherry tomatoes, and sliced cucumbers enveloped in a citrus vinaigrette, this plate satisfied but didn’t sit heavy. Would order again.
It could be said that the seven-ounce Hunter Filet is worth its weight in gold—that would make it an $8,995 dish at today’s market rate. Thankfully, at $27 per plate, this rich dish can be enjoyed without spending a fortune (every dish is fairly priced in this reviewer’s opinion). The cut of filet mignon was lightly-seared and likely finished under the broiler to the desired doneness—for me, medium rare. Smothered in a red wine demiglace sauce, complete with soft coins of wild mushroom (how wild they were I could not tell), and a smidgeon of gorgonzola cream as a topper, this tender filet transported me to Dorf Tirol, a tiny village tucked in the Dolomites where German, Austrian, and Italian heritage comingles. I lived there for four months and heartwarming, homemade dishes of this sort were the norm. So, kudos to Main & Market for a properly cooked, robustly flavored dish that offered meaning behind every bite. Bonus points for the side of fried cheddar polenta triangles that perfectly sopped up the remains of the hearty sauce.
Had we enjoyed enough? Not quite. I wanted to see how wide my daughter’s eyes would get if we brought the dessert tray to the table. Oh, they grew alright. And so did our near-full appetites, just enough to split a very large slice of cake between the four of us. Birthday Cake was the chosen slice (traditional yellow cake with a white butter cream icing and sprinkles), among several options that include various takes on chocolate, coconut, velvet, and peanut butter.
By dinner’s end, we all felt jolly and satiated with a dopamine fog that comes when feasting with the best company, splendid food, and an atmosphere capable of transporting you to your heart’s desire. Well done Main & Market, which, oh by the way, can bring the experience to you with their stellar catering service—winners of What’s Up? Annapolis’ Best Caterer award several years running. Dine in or dine out—there’s a Main & Market for that.
