Setting a Maryland Table

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Recipes

Observing some of our state’s beloved holiday food and entertaining traditions

The holidays are a time to be merry—and maybe crabby at the same time. A festive feast in Maryland calls for setting the table with some of our state’s favorite traditional dishes. From southern-influenced comfort food to coastal cuisine, the eclectic tastes of Maryland will mean your get-together is one where everyone feels welcome, well-fed, and fully Maryland proud.

Here are 12 traditional Maryland favorites, including main courses, sides, apps, desserts, and beverages, you’ll want to include on your holiday menu this year.

Oyster Stuffing: You’re going to notice that oysters appear in many Maryland holiday traditions, and there’s a distinct reason for that: Maryland was originally a Catholic colony, which meant abstinence from meat on holidays. Seafood like oysters, which are abundant in the Chesapeake region, particularly in Maryland, was an alternative that could still be hearty enough for a meal and celebratory enough for a holiday. In the case of oyster stuffing, a traditional stuffing made from toasted bread cubes (cornbread for a truly authentic Maryland taste) and aromatics (like onion, celery, and herbs) gets tossed with oysters, either whole or chopped. A strong briny flavor from reserved oyster liquor can give this side dish a uniquely coastal taste.

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Add the oysters to your stuffing just before baking and be careful not to overmix, or else you risk losing their delicate briny flavor.

Stuffed Ham: Many a Maryland table has featured a stuffed ham as the central dish, especially for a festive banquet or feast like you would be inclined to have during the holidays, and this tradition stretches back centuries. When English settlers came to the New World, they brought the tradition of ham curing with them, but the distinctive kick that Maryland stuffed ham gets thanks to the use of red pepper would’ve come from a different influence—that seasoning is credited to the African culinary traditions of enslaved people who were preparing it (frequently the case with most southern cooking). In the case of Maryland stuffed ham, the ham is deboned, slit open, and stuffed with spicy seasoned vegetables like cabbage, kale, onions, celery, and hot pepper. In colonial days, these greens would have been out of season and wilted in the cold of winter, so it made sense to cook them inside the ham. After being stuffed, the ham is tied up with cheesecloth, brined, then boiled instead of baked. Traditionally, the stuffed ham would be cooled and sliced cold to be served with rolls. All of this intense prep work makes it suited for special occasions—such as Thanksgiving and Christmas—instead of an everyday meal or even a weekly Sunday dinner.

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Make sure you push the vegetables down firmly into the cuts rather than layering them on top. This will not only keep them from falling out during the long boil but also ensure they take on plenty of flavor.

Oyster Stew: Here’s another popular oyster dish: oyster stew, which is a seafood dish that’s warm and comforting for the winter months. With high-quality ingredients and attention to flavor, a good oyster stew can be decadent enough for a casual holiday gathering, either as an appetizer or a light entrée. A cream-based broth makes it taste indulgent, and the addition of Old Bay and Worcestershire sauce gives it Maryland flavor.

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Serve your stew with oyster crackers—small, lightly salted crackers that will soak up the oyster flavor.

Smith Island Cake: You may know Smith Island cake as the official state dessert of Maryland. It originated in Smith Island, our state’s last inhabited offshore island, where in generations past it would have been baked during the long, dark, cold months of winter to keep up the morale for the local watermen. And because it was regarded as such a boost to morale, many households would prepare it as a show of welcoming guests. Is it any wonder it would be considered such a hit at holiday time, when it would be seen as a symbol of hospitality and abundance? What makes Smith Island cake different from other desserts is its layers—a true Smith Island cake is made up of between eight and twelve very thin layers of yellow cake with chocolate frosting in between. These many layers of cake and frosting are festive and decadent, making them perfect for a party.

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Don’t rush the process—making a Smith Island cake takes a lot of patience, and it’s easy to tear up a layer of thin cake if you rush spreading the frosting too quickly.

Corn Pudding: Corn is a staple crop of the Maryland region, especially on the Chesapeake Bay’s eastern shore, so a side dish like corn pudding will localize your table much more than another holiday side dish like mashed potatoes. It’s easy to prepare in large quantities, and the rich flavor it gets from the sweet corn combined with eggs, cream, butter, and a little sugar makes it a decadent side dish for other indulgent holiday foods.

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Using a mix of corn kernels and creamed corn balances the texture of the pudding. You’ll get a burst of sweetness from each of the kernels you bite into while the creamed corn will blend perfectly with the other ingredients.

Sauerkraut: This vegetable dish is popular in German and Eastern European cultures, which have always enjoyed strong representation throughout Maryland, especially in Baltimore. Because Germans would have associated sauerkraut with good luck and prosperity, it’s a perfect choice for a holiday gathering (even New Year’s Eve). In the past when very few vegetables would have been available throughout the winter, fermenting the sauerkraut was a practical way of preserving the cabbage harvest in the fall. Plus, its sour flavor will cut through the richness of fatty meats like ham. This might be one of the reasons that grocers in early 20th century Baltimore liked to run ads reminding people that sauerkraut was the official side vegetable for Christmas dinner.

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Sauerkraut is traditionally served cold, but if you want to give it a bit of warmth on a chilly winter night, lightly heat it on the stovetop with butter, onions, and apples.

Maryland Crab Soup: Maryland crab soup isn’t an exclusively winter dish—it’s enjoyed year-round, and it’s not at all uncommon in the summer when crabs are in season. But because it’s an easy way to make use of crab meat that’s been frozen and stored for colder months, why wouldn’t you choose to show off some Maryland pride at your holiday gathering with something that’s warm, hearty, and perfect for a cold day? Maryland-style crab soup combines blue crab meat with a tomato-based broth, vegetables, and plenty of Old Bay, and even though it’s satisfying on its own, it’s still light enough to complement a heavier dish like stuffed ham.

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If you didn’t freeze any crab meat over the summer, you can buy pasteurized crab meat in the frozen section of the grocery store—look for local Chesapeake-sourced crab if you can get it.

Mini Crab Cakes: Crab cakes are another Maryland dish served year-round, but they are often perceived as posh and celebratory—especially when made with jumbo lump crab—and it’s hard to throw any kind of party without them. Another reason they’re an ideal option for entertaining is because they can be made in large or small portions, so no matter how long your guest list is, you have something that can be set out on a platter, passed around, and shared. Make sure you splurge on the best ingredients, so these savory little patties really wow your crowd.

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Hosting a Hanukkah party? You could put a crabby variation on traditional latkes by combining some jumbo lump crab meat with the potatoes. You could even try combining some Old Bay with the sour cream you serve them with!

Stuffed Rockfish: Maryland’s state fish—striped bass, a.k.a. rockfish—gets elevated to a centerpiece-worthy dish when it is filled with a savory stuffing, often including crab imperial or oysters, along with breadcrumbs, and baked. It makes for a dramatic presentation that will stand out among the other festive dishes on your holiday table, and even though it’s elaborate enough to be the focal point of your menu, it still complements other feast options like stuffed ham or oyster stew nicely.

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Mix your stuffing so that it’s moist but not runny before you put it in the fish. After baking, give the stuffed rockfish a drizzle of lemon butter for extra flavor.

Persimmon Pudding: If you haven’t heard of persimmon pudding (even if you’re a longtime Marylander), don’t worry. It’s a bit old-fashioned and bringing it back will give your holiday table some vintage charm. The pulp of ripe persimmons is combined with flour, sugar, eggs, milk, and warm spices like cinnamon and nutmeg to produce a dish similar to steamed plum pudding, which you can slice and serve with ice cream or a simple dusting of powdered sugar. But unlike plums, persimmons are native to the mid-Atlantic region, including Maryland, where they ripen in the late fall, just before Thanksgiving. Pulling off this rich dessert is labor intensive, so it’s best for celebratory occasions like the holidays.

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Make your persimmon pudding with persimmons that are borderline overripe. They’ll be soft and almost mushy, but they’ll be much sweeter. Underripe persimmons will give you a dessert that’s too astringent.

Eggnog with Rye Whiskey: Here’s a way to give a popular holiday cocktail some Maryland flavor: While eggnog is traditionally made with cream, sugar, whipped eggs, warm spices, and either bourbon or rum, you can make yours with rye whiskey. This liquor, primarily produced in our state throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, is a source of regional pride as much as crabs and oysters. It has a spicier, bolder profile that will elevate your eggnog in a way your guests will almost certainly comment on.

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Rye has a much stronger flavor than bourbon, so you’ll want to use less of it. Too much will overpower the other flavors in the drink.

Hot Spiced Apple Cider: Maryland apple orchards are a source of local agricultural pride, so much so that apple picking and cider making are a popular tradition in western and northern areas like Montgomery County, Frederick County, and Carroll County. Freshly pressed apple cider is distinctively autumnal as it is, making it perfect for Thanksgiving, but when it’s warmed and mulled with winter spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves, it becomes a comforting beverage you’ll want to enjoy all winter long. Combine it with some of that local Maryland rye whiskey for a festive adult option.

Click here for several seasonal cocktail recipes, including eggnog and cider

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Warm up the apple cider slowly over low heat—a gentle simmer is better for retaining that delicate apple taste than a full boil. This will also give your spices a chance to infuse.

Your Best Tips for Holiday Entertaining

  • Candles, twinkle lights, and music will set the mood for the gathering. Be sure to create a holiday playlist that includes a mix of classics and contemporary hits so there’s something there to please each of your guests.
  • You may need to rearrange some furniture for comfortable entertaining. Create as much open space as possible for guests to gather, with clustered seating where people can have a conversation.
  • If you don’t have a formal bar in your home, set up a makeshift one on a small table or a convenient section of the kitchen counter. Be sure to include non-alcoholic options for any of your guests who don’t drink.
  • Label vegetarian or allergen-free dishes so your guests are able to navigate the buffet with ease. If you can’t guarantee that a dish didn’t have any cross-contamination, it’s safest not to label it.
  • Designate an area for coats and bags to keep your foyer or entryway free of clutter. If you don’t have a front closet with enough room, a nearby guest room may work best.
  • Consider whether you want to set out a self-serve buffet or a sit-down plated dinner. Although a sit-down dinner feels formal and sophisticated, it’s not as conducive to socializing—which is what your guests are there to do. A buffet is easier for people to serve themselves and eat at their leisure throughout the evening. If you do choose to do a sit-down dinner, be sure to start with passed appetizers during cocktail hour.
  • Consider having an outdoor space for guests who may wish to step outside for fresh air or a moment of quiet. A firepit or outdoor heater can turn your patio into a comfortable retreat on a cold winter night.
  • Combine some Maryland-inspired coastal elements into your natural décor. Painted crab shells or oyster shells with a touch of glitter will add a pop of nautical flair when hung among your evergreens.