Photography by Stephen Buchanan & Tony Lewis
Photography by Stephen Buchanan & Tony Lewis
Lewnes’ Steak House in the maritime community of Eastport is the epitome of an Annapolis story. A story of immigration to a town fixed in Colonial roots, yet embracing of determination and always forward thinking. Over centuries, those who’ve visited or wholly moved to Annapolis with ideals and values greater than their own egos have succeeded in inspiring the townspeople, leading them, and honoring the legacies born before their own. If you think I’m shilling hyperbole, please read on.
Revered as one of our town’s most historic restaurants, Lewnes’ origins date back to 1906 when 14-year-old Sam Lewnes migrated from Greece to New York, where he worked for several years, and then, in 1913, moved to Annapolis to marry Cecilia Mandris, sister of his friend Nick. This created a harmonious union of two Greek families that owned and operated confectionaries and restaurants in Annapolis for several decades. The rest is history, eventually leading to the establishment of Lewnes’ Steak House (née Sam’s Corner) by grandson Charlie in 1989, in honor of that boy who arrived at Ellis Island so long ago.
Over the years, its present location has stuck to a formula that began with offering the first prime-aged steaks served in the area and evolved into a very special place. The restaurant’s extraordinary wine cellar, personalized service with an owner-presence, and a quiet luxurious ambiance resembles a private club that harks back to the days of Sinatra, epitomizing the New York steakhouse experience, a la Peter Luger’s. Today, the fourth generation of the Lewnes family, brothers Sam and Mack, manage this fine establishment.
Step inside and you immediately feel important. We’ve dined here many times over many years, and a dinner at Lewnes’ never ceases to impress. It’s classy. It’s upscale. Fine, black leather booths with high backs offer privacy for intimate dinners. Larger parties are accommodated at white tablecloth tables. Auburn wall paneling and moody, onyx colored flooring below foot and on the ceiling above create a snazzy atmosphere. The lighting is dim. The entire space is smart and attractive.
Service is impeccable, as one should expect when fine dining. To start the evening, I recommend a classic cocktail from the full bar, perhaps a vodka martini taken dirty and made with Grey Goose. Paired to a plate of plump oysters on the half shell or Rockefeller-style, the aperitif makes a fine introduction to an evening of epicurean delights. Sipping your drink and plucking the bivalves also affords time to peruse the wine menu, which you’ll most certainly want to do, especially if you’re into oenology (the study of wine). The standalone wine menu travels the world, offers no less than 150 carefully curated bottles, and boasts rare vintages. Indeed, Lewnes’ wine cellar is deep and has earned Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence 12 years running.
Thus, choices are plenty at Lewnes’ and decisions difficult. Everything is undoubtedly delicious. Other starters that we’ve fallen in love with include the Jumbo Lump Crab Balls, Clams Casino, and an impressive Shrimp Cocktail. Often, I select a glass of cabernet to accompany the main frame of the evening—steak dinner. On a recent visit, a full-bodied 2019 Worthy “Sophia’s Cuvee” from Napa Valley was quite fine. My entrée selection was the 13-ounce Filet Mignon, perfectly seared with copper-brown crust and glistening with melted butter atop. You can downsize or upsize your appetite; the range of U.S. Prime steaks is between the 8-ounce Filet Mignon Petite and a behemoth 40-ounce Tomahawk Ribeye, with other cuts including Porterhouse and New York.
Photography by Stephen Buchanan & Tony Lewis
Photography by Stephen Buchanan & Tony Lewis
Because my wife and I share bites, she chose the Chilean Sea Bass, cooked to flaky perfection and a tasty, light counterbalance to the denser steak. Non-bovine mains also include Double Breast of Chicken, Yellowfin Tuna, Aegean-style shrimp, crabcakes, Atlantic Salmon, and Jumbo Maine Lobster (market permitting).
Side dishes are ordered separately with a collection of vegetable offerings (Creamed Spinach is a can’t-miss) and potatoes several ways (mashed, hashed, baked, Lyonnaise, or French). If lighter fare is all there’s room for, the salads satisfy. Simple, but elegant, the Spiro’s Famous Greek Salad is a throwback to the restaurant’s roots with the family’s secretive dressing recipe.
Sweet endings should be enjoyed at Lewnes’. Several hallmark desserts are expertly crafted. Their Brownie a la Mode is a heavenly marriage of chocolate to vanilla and perfect for sharing. Two spoons please! Carrot Cake, Cheesecake, Key Lime Pie, and Baklava (yes, yes, yes!) round out the menu.
With more than a century behind its family name, Lewnes’ is a steakhouse you can trust for an elite dining experience in the heart of Annapolis.
Lewnes’ Steak House | 401 Fourth Street, Annapolis; 410-263-1617; lewnessteakhouse.com
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