Photography by Tony Lewis, Jr.
In 1989, Annapolis-area congregations founded the Light House on West Street, a homeless prevention and support services center. After adding occupational instruction to a new, larger Hudson Street facility that opened in 2010, the organization transformed the West Street shelter into the Light House Bistro in 2017. The restaurant is board-run by an Executive Director, with all employees—wait staff, cooks, and supervisors—drawn from the Light House’s professionally-trained graduates—like Johnathan Matias, who grew from a dishwasher to waiter, and is now the restaurant’s manager.
Seasonally rotating menus offer colossal portions of delicious food at very low prices. At this dynamic eatery, patrons directly participate in an invaluable community enterprise by simply enjoying the creative cuisine designed and prepared by the next generation of culinary artists.
Photography by Tony Lewis, Jr.
My family visited on a warm Saturday in spring. Matias enthusiastically welcomed us from a host stand adjacent to the bar that sells beer, wine, margaritas, Bloody Marys, and an array of color-coded, family-size bags of granola available in Blueberry, Cranberry Pecan, Vanilla Almond, Ginger Snap, and Chocolate Cherry (produced on site and also sold locally at Graul’s Markets and Uber Bagels).
We were led into what felt like a big, friendly barn, with lacquered wooden tables and chairs surrounded by walls adorned with wagon wheels of various dimensions, interspersed with expressions of encouragement. This large room is nestled between a row of tall windows overlooking the Presidents Hill neighborhood and an open kitchen generating the collective scents of breakfast and lunch served all day, from sizzling omelets to grilled burgers. The joyous atmosphere exuded a noticeable energy, an excitement akin to being seated for a highly entertaining performance.
After greetings from our ebullient server Jessica, we ordered lemonade, iced tea, and two “table starters.” The wide, oval-shaped Goat and Fig Pizzetta features a moist, chewy crust below a dense spread of chunky fig preserves, melted mozzarella, chunks of savory goat cheese, sliced shallots, thyme, and a drizzling of olive oil—a glistening merger of sugary fruit and robust fromage that explodes with flavor.
Photography by Tony Lewis, Jr.
Photography by Tony Lewis, Jr.
The Chef’s Scramble is a towering platter of “brunch nachos” protruding from the depths of a large, white bowl. A foundation of crunchy tortilla chips—lathered with a tangy, maroon enchilada sauce—is completely concealed by a zesty combination of succulent, tender, pulled chicken and a generous amount of fluffy, scrambled eggs intermingled with fresh cilantro, sharp cheddar cheese, and mild red salsa, green scallions for garnish, and silky sour cream. We eagerly divided this mouthwatering ensemble into four smaller plates and delightfully discovered that all of the individually piquant ingredients masterfully punctuate each other.
Our young sons split two selections. The massive, plate-sized Waffles, over a full inch-tall, possess cavernous griddle squares that soak up the Bistro’s thick, hearty, maple syrup. Made to order from a golden malted mix, they’re light, airy, tasty, and served either alone, with strawberries and cream, or (our choice) smothered by large, appetizing filets of boneless chicken, dipped in a lightly seasoned batter and fried—juicy inside, incredibly crispy outside. The similarly gigantic Pancakes with bacon or sausage on the mostly under $10 Kiddos menu are made from a sweet cream batter and served two to an order, regular-style or infused with distinctive vanilla, ripe blueberries, or (our choice) a galaxy of chocolate chips that melt into decadent gobs within the richly satisfying flapjacks. (On Fridays, all pancakes are only $2 each!)
My wife and I shared two entrees. The Shrimp Salad Sandwich from the Specials menu arrived on a large, silver pan loaded on one side by a landslide of golden, hand cut French fries with a touch of salt. On the other end was a circular, flaky, buttery, toasted croissant stuffed with a mesmerizing union of scrumptious jumbo prawns superbly accentuated by Old Bay, lemon, minced celery, tarragon, and shallots—held together by a thin film of mayonnaise and mustard.
Their legendary Meatloaf Hash is utterly exquisite; a spacious bowl stacked with a heaping pile of perfectly oven-roasted potatoes—slightly seared on the outside with a velvety inner texture—buried under an avalanche of brawny meatloaf medallions. Executive Chef Tyler Nelson described it as a mixture of eggs, breadcrumbs, and a delectable blend of veal, beef, and pork, enhanced with diced onions and scallions. This ambrosial dish is crowned by two sizable poached eggs. They were as amazing as they looked, ethereal as clouds with luscious, runny yolks.
For dessert, the Apple Pie a la Mode version of their famous Grilled Bread Pudding French Toast proved irresistible. Two immense, butter-browned cubes of sturdy bread pudding are drenched with a yellow crème anglaise (an icing made from egg yolks, heavy cream, vanilla, and sugar). To all of that, we added a plump scoop of vanilla ice cream engulfed by a warm, celestial glaze of apples, caramel, and cinnamon. We gleefully dove in with our forks, frantically digging through multiple layers of heavenly bliss, each more gratifying than the next.
Photography by Tony Lewis, Jr.
Impending menu additions and a soon-to-be scheduled series of ticketed events—such as their new “Pop-Up Dinners” highlighting several courses at once—will illuminate our future voyages back to the Light House Bistro.
As we left, one of many wall-mounted signs caught my eye: “When everything feels like an uphill struggle, just think of the view from the top!” This enchanting establishment’s remarkable ambience—characterized by insightful recipes, zealous hospitality, and an impressive dedication to helping others—puts them at the top of the list of innovative initiatives truly making a difference, one day, one person, and one meal at a time.
Light House Bistro | 202 West Street, Annapolis • 410-424-0922 • lighthousebistro.org
Mark Croatti has worked across the country from Los Angeles to Washington, D.C. as a caterer, prep cook, and food server at both specialty restaurants and major chains, including preparing meals for major figures in the entertainment industry and professional sports.
