Photography by Laura Wiegmann
Photography by Laura Wiegmann
Both “Carroll Creek” in Frederick and “Carroll’s Creek” in Annapolis honored Charles Carroll of Carrollton, a Declaration of Independence signer and the most famous of several family members with this name. In 1904, the latter became Spa Creek, possibly to avoid confusion, but an old map found in France (where Carroll was educated) and brought to America revealed the unique spelling of “Carrol’s Creek” that differentiated the two tributaries—and inspired a shorefront restaurant opened in 1983 by Jeff Hardesty and Joseph Jacobs.
Still owned by Joseph and his son Jeff, their imaginative recipes for regional favorites—and heavily discounted appetizers Sunday through Friday during a lengthy Happy Hour—continue to reel in legions of devoted patrons. Recalling fond memories from when we lived in Eastport, my wife and I returned with our kids on a sunny Saturday in June, eager to recapture our old neighborhood’s charm.
An adventurous way to get there is by Water Taxi, only a few dollars each way per person (private vessels require Annapolis City Marina arrangements). Our affable skipper deftly circumnavigated an armada of boaters toward an array of docks and slips surrounding an elegant façade. We disembarked, followed a path, and entered to an enthusiastic greeting from manager Dave Roe, Executive Chef Ricardo Rebello, and a cadre of friendly hosts. A long, rectangular lounge’s abundant seating parallels a curvy, well-stocked bar boasting a hundred American and international wines and champagnes that complement three dozen mostly Eastern Seaboard craft beers. A multi-page libation brochure sold us on the refreshing “Just Peachy” mocktail, blending Monin Peach Syrup-infused lemonade, soda, lemon wedges, and mint leaves.
The cavernous dining area—featuring a glass-enclosed function room—is windowed left to right to showcase the creek. We were taken to an indoor table beside an outer deck offering a panoramic view of the United States Naval Academy, Maryland’s State House dome, St. Mary’s Church, and Charles Carroll’s home.
An energetic staff departing a busy kitchen with visually dazzling trays of food was engulfed in a delightful aroma of seafood being broiled, steamed, and grilled. Our gracious server, Corky, quickly welcomed us, carrying baskets of warm bread and butter. We chose some table starters from an eclectic menu containing a wide variety of maritime selections encompassing fresh fish, crabcakes, crustaceans, and mollusks; turf delicacies such as Filet Mignon, New York Strip Au Poivre, and New Zealand Rack of Lamb; and global specialties like Canadian Salmon, Mexican Shrimp Cocktail, and Mediterranean Stir Fry.
Photography by Laura Wiegmann
The peppery Crab Guacamole buries crushed ripe avocadoes and accoutrements under an avalanche of succulent lump crab—big, meaty chunks of it—served with an overflowing basket of Old Bay-seasoned tortilla chips, green tabasco-imbued Pico de Gallo, and a tasty lime sour cream. The enjoyably chewy Calamari—lightly dipped in rice flour, onion powder, and garlic—explodes with flavor alone or doused in an exquisite, mild sriracha basil aioli made with mayonnaise, sweet chili, and lemon juice. The flaky yet firm Chesapeake Channa transforms the invasive Snakehead into crispy fish sticks fried in a batter of egg whites, Japanese breadcrumbs, and flour, accompanied by a piquant malt vinegar remoulade for dipping.
We ordered our young sons’ meals and a plethora of appetizers. The delectably juicy, outwardly singed jumbo Sea Scallops—rolled in shredded phyllo, bathed in a scrumptious, silky shrimp gravy, and poured over sauteed spinach—are capped with prosciutto ham and more of that amazing lump crab. The hearty, applewood smoked bacon-encased BBQ Shrimp are grilled, laminated in a citrus barbeque glaze, then placed upon a savory cucumber and onion salad that fully absorbed its apple cider vinegar and sugar dressing.
The enticing Baked Oysters—immersed in bacon and horseradish and sealed in the shell by a luscious layer of melted Cabot Vermont Sharp Cheddar Cheese—include chives and a lemon wedge. The Cream of Crab Soup—the best I’ve ever had—is stuffed with even bigger morsels of that incredible lump crab marinating in a velvety broth crafted from crab base, heavy cream, Old Bay, onions, cloves, and a distinctively tangy sherry liquor. The boys split a medium-sized Kid’s Burger that tasted flame broiled and the moist Kid’s Chicken Tenders, both plated alongside a massive portion of golden French fries.
Photography by Laura Wiegmann
Our entrées soon arrived. The towering Herb Encrusted Rockfish rises from a plate—coated by a syrupy Thyme Beurre Blanc, a French butter sauce merging fresh thyme, shallots, and lemon—that’s loaded with a tempting ensemble of plump, green asparagus crowns protruding between an assortment of bold red, orange, and yellow heirloom tomatoes. It’s all overlaid by a sizable dollop of mashed purple cauliflower supporting an ample cube of the finest in season Chesapeake Bay striped bass—sweet, delicate in texture, and sheathed in an outer mantle of fresh thyme, oregano, and basil—that’s itself topped with a pyramid of yet more lump crab!
Another stacked classic, the flawlessly seared Thai Style Scallops, likewise encourages vertically spearing all of the ingredients to savor simultaneously. A foundation of Thai green curry—simmered in coconut milk and lemongrass—embraces an outer ring of perfectly cooked red and yellow bell peppers, green beans, square bamboo shoots, and toasted coconut. Four buttery jumbo scallops—perched high atop the vegetables hugging the bowl’s rim—encircle a central mound of white jasmine rice, garnished with cilantro and diligently soaking up every mouthwatering drop of the zesty curry.
For dessert, I implore you: Try their Coffee and Donuts Bread Pudding—a large, soft, muffin-shaped confection lathered in a rich, deliciously boozy, Maker’s Mark bourbon and sea salt caramel drizzle, then dusted with powdered cinnamon and crowned by a generous scoop of decadent coffee-chocolate chip ice cream; this masterpiece is to die for. According to owner Jeff Jacobs, his previous general manager discovered this extraordinary patisserie in Fernandina, a Florida town on the Georgia border.
Photography by Laura Wiegmann
My wife loved another coffee-themed treat, their Espresso Crème Broulee and its crunchy, caramelized sugar crust, while our kids shared a rotund scoop of Caramel & Sea Salt-flavored A la Mode (brand) Ice Cream.
On the Water Taxi back to City Dock, the boys took turns alternating as captains navigating slightly choppy seas as we passed the home of Charles Carroll. I thought of how in 1993, the United States Board on Geographic Names turned down the Carroll Creek Committee’s request to reinstate Spa Creek’s original name. Someday that may change but, in the meantime, Carrol’s Creek Café continues to salute the legacy of the man and his waterway by proudly providing his hometown with truly incomparable cuisine.
Carrol’s Creek Café | 410 Severn Avenue, Annapolis • 410-263-8102 • carrolscreek.com
Mark Croatti has worked across the country from Los Angeles to Washington, D.C. as a caterer, prep cook, and food server at both specialty restaurants and major chains, including preparing meals for major figures in the entertainment industry and professional sports.
