Old Stein Inn | 1143 Central Avenue, Edgewater 410-798-6807 | oldstein-inn.com
I can enthusiastically state that after 25 some years of, personally, dining at Old Stein Inn in Edgewater that I still get giddy each and every (but few and far between) outings to the renowned German restaurant. It’s that good. Knowing that I’d take the reins on this dining review had me eagerly anticipating a feast of wursts and mustards, spatzle and schnitzel, red cabbage and kraut, their outstanding crab soup with muenster cheese atop, and, of course, a beer to wash it all down.
But it had been a couple years since my last outing. Would my anticipation and hopes be justified? Has owner Mike Selinger continued his family’s legacy of offering an authentic German experience? After all, his parents, Karl and Ursala, essentially built this real-deal restaurant shortly after emigrating from Rhineland-Pfalz (the German state just west of Frankfurt) in 1983 and quickly established Old Stein Inn as the restaurant in Anne Arundel County and beyond for all manner of gemütlichkeit (German for a state or feeling of warmth, friendliness, and good cheer) and delicious fare. Truth be told, Selinger has lived up to this legacy for some time, having taken over the restaurant from his parents some 15–20 years ago. In the time since, he’s refurbished the interior several times over (while staying true to its cozy and Old-World roots and style) and built-out an expansive biergarten, perfect for al fresco dining on a crisp October outing.
But it was not October during this visit and review (it was August). And the effects of COVID-19 were (and still are) dictating many dos and don’ts when it comes to dining out. So, what were my, and my family’s, options? Thankfully, happily, many. Though our group, which included my immediate family (wife and two children) and in-laws, were precluded from dining inside (the elders being immunocompromised), for those wishing to do so, Old Stein Inn safely offers both indoor and outdoor seating—socially distanced, yet jovial all the same. In fact, you can reserve your table online easily via Old Stein’s website, which itself is very informative and clued me in (glaringly at the top) that online ordering is also available for carry-out—the option we chose. Admittedly, I was very pleased to see Selinger and company adapt so well to current affairs by giving diners all possible options to enjoy their atmosphere, food, or both.
And thankfully, the full menu was available online, as one would hope. Having rounded up my family’s selections (which, oh by the way, has thick German immigrant ancestry), I selected and clicked my way through the ordering process, paid via credit card, and received instant notification that my order would be ready for pickup within 20 minutes. Pretty good.
When I worked my way down Central Avenue, it was nice to cruise past the elementary, middle, and high schools and reminisce about the many good friends and good times had there. Equally nice to think through the many great meals enjoyed at Old Stein. Anticipation was building. Surprisingly, the parking lot of Old Stein was busy-ish. And when going inside for carry-out, I was amused to see happy diners here and there, munching their meals and quaffing German brews, of which Old Stein is renowned for having many classic, distinct, and authentic beers on tap. My visit wouldn’t last long enough to enjoy one, however, so onward home I sped to deliver a feast to the fam.
The food. Two words—sehr gut. Very good. The adults each managed to slurp down a cup of Old Stein’s cream of crab soup within the first several minutes of sitting down. The cream base had notes of sherry mixed in, there seemed to be a lump of crab within each bite, and traces of muenster cheese—usually a full slice draped across the top a la French onion soup, if memory serves correct—were delicately swirled within (a clever adjustment for to-go packaging). Not a drop was left.
Of course, for our mains we aptly ordered a fair representation of what Old Stein Inn—and German cuisine, in general—is known for; a smattering of wursts, schnitzels, spatzle, cabbage…even a Bavarian soft pretzel. More so, we ordered a Sampler Platter, which includes some of the aforementioned items, but also a Kassler Rippchen—a smoked, grilled bone-in pork chop. Some Americanized and local fare balanced our orders, with an a la carte crabcake, the Doner Kabob (a pita wrap, for which shrimp salad was the chosen star), and the kids’ meals, one of which was a classic cheeseburger and the other, cheese spatzle, which pleased our wee-est one as “close-enough” to mac-n-cheese.
Wursts and schnitzel are my go-tos—specifically the Weiss wurst, and the chicken Jagerschnitzel, which must, in my opinion, be accompanied with a classic Hunter/mushroom sauce. The Weiss wurst, a veal sausage, with its smooth and milder flavor offers a subtle introduction to the world of wursts and doesn’t sit heavy—nor taste it—like some of the more fatty and smoky sausages that are available. It’s why I enjoy them so…they taste mild but delicious, and I have room to enjoy other dishes or sides, of which the red cabbage and spatzle—yes, that small German egg noodle boiled, then sautéed in brown butter—shined. At home, when I make spatzle, I never seem to get the consistency for which Old Stein excels—even with my own spatzle-maker. Which is to say, if there was any spatzle left on anyone’s plate, I went for it.
The Jagerschnitzel was ordered breaded and sautéed and, even with it nestled snug inside it’s carryout carton for the trip home, remained tender yet crisp. The thinly-patted chicken had an even coating of, what seemed a combo bread crumb coating—perhaps traditional mixed with some panko—and was easy to slice. The mushroom-and-bacon sauce is the exclamation point for this dish and each morsel of chicken should be drenched in it to max out the schnitzel’s potential. Old Stein obliged with a hefty cup of the sauce and, overall, this dish delivered—it’s earthy, savory flavor and multi-texture made for the perfect comfort food fill-up.
Another stand-out at the table was the Kassler Rippchen—the thick-cut chop with such a deep smoke ‘n sear flavor profile that even a whiff of the bacony beast could cause pork hysteria (which I think lives within most of us). Each morsel was an intense hit of robust deliciousness. Balancing bites of German potato salad between each hammy hit was a smart move, and Old Stein’s salad in this regard is a chunky, salt ’n sour addictive concoction. Top notch.
The crabcake proved itself a worthy candidate for any kitchen in Annapolis or Baltimore. It was quite fine—a classic combination of lump and backfin meat aptly held together with gentle binder of egg/mayonnaise. Not overdone, nor pretentious. Simply good. Same remarks were made for shrimp salad, which nestled within a pita wrap that felt more American than anything German on the menu, despite its name Doner Kabob. And the children couldn’t have been more pleased with the cheeseburger and cheese-spatzle. Something for everyone made the evening.
I, for one, greatly look forward to making a return visit—to dine in the biergarten this fall. After all, I left room for dessert (of which Old Stein has several tempting treats: Black Forest Cherry Cake and Hazelnut Torte among them). Or maybe, I’ll take those extra calories by way of brew—there are more than enough unique German beers to get a fill.
By the time this review goes to print, the weather will have turned toward autumn’s embrace. Perfect for evenings spent with family and friends, enjoying great food, quaffing delicious drink, and shouts of “Prost!” all around. Perfect for Old Stein Inn.
