By Mary Lou Baker Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Some of my friends have fond memories of their childhood Sundays—especially the after-church visits to their parents' favorite Chinese restaurant. Most of those family-owned establishments have gone out of business. But one, Hunan L'Rose, is still open. The well-known restaurant in Odenton has made memories for many generations of families who have made it their favorite for years.
We visited Hunan L'Rose recently and found little changed since our last review in 2016. Floral wallpaper reminded us of gentler times, an enormous glass chandelier dominated the main dining room, the staff displayed the same deferential service, and the greeting at the door was as cordial as ever. We settled into the curved booth, sipped the tea ought to the table in a teapot almost immediately, and proceeded with the pleasant task of choosing from a vast menu of seafood, poultry, meat, and vegetarian dishes.
“Specials of the Week,” listed on a separate sheet, are helpful guidelines for those overwhelmed by too many choices. Specials are seasonal and on our July visit, we saw soft shell crabs, fresh asparagus with chicken, and spicy fried rice with shrimp, chicken, beef, and scallops on the menu. We went with the year-round options for a sampling of what the kitchen does so well.
Intrigued by the idea of Chinese chicken livers, a throwback to the '60s and my fascination with all things Asian, I chose it as an appetizer. Not knowing what to expect, I was surprised by the deep-fried rendition of this old favorite. There are 18 appetizers on the menu—a bonus number compared to most restaurants in this category, which speaks to the versatility of the kitchen. First off, the spring roll overflowed with chopped vegetables and got high marks from the teenage boy at a nearby table when I asked him to comment on its quality. “Tastes just like an egg roll should,” he says. “Pretty good.”
What I recommend as starters are either of the soups—a fresh-tasting and eye-appealing classic egg drop version and a tangy hot and sour combo that pleased an aficionado of this healthy Asian specialty. With so many options, choosing the main courses took a while; Lin, our server, remained serenely patient throughout it all. Entrees are organized into seven sections, with descriptions of each preparation of pork, chicken, beef, shrimp, scallops, and vegetables, and a listing of nine “chef's suggestions.”
Orange chicken was one suggestion by the chef, a dish we have enjoyed at numerous Asian eateries over the years, and which is now readily available in gourmet markets. Hunan L'Rose's version was solid; the large chicken pieces still crispy in a citrus sauce spiced with red pepper flakes. Steamed occoli florets added flavor, texture, and color to the dish. The same healthy occoli was the main ingredient in the beef and occoli entrée, a favorite of a fellow diner, who praised the fork-tenderness of the sliced meat.
Shrimp in lobster sauce featured a generous number of medium-sized shrimp sizzled with water chestnuts and Chinese mushrooms in a light sauce studded with green peas. The portion was large, and the accompanying rice provided a soothing bed for the lightly sauced crustaceans. Scallops are not all that common in Asian cuisines, but the kitchen at Hunan L'Rose gives these delectable delicacies their due. The chef uses very fresh sea scallops in eight different preparations, among them Kung Pao style with peanuts and hot pepper, Szechuan style with ginger, Peking style with vegetables, and scallops with garlic sauce—my choice that day. The sweet sea-taste of the scallops shone through the spicy sauce, sharing space with tender bamboo shoots and water chestnuts. It was a bountiful meal and something I would order again—next time to share with a friend. Portions here are enormous, with leftovers cheerfully boxed for taking home.
One of the most pleasing things about a meal here is the delicious complimentary finale—small servings of orange sherbet and vanilla cream nestled in tiny glass serving dishes. Their appearance at our table was a reassuring reminder that nothing much has changed at this family favorite, except ownership. Michael Ng bought the restaurant in 2016, but most of the staff stayed on and the commitment to excellence remains.
Hunan L'Rose is the Chinese restaurant of your childhood—hospitable, affordable, and habit-forming. Come here to eat well and feel good.
