The Aces of O’Learys

by

The Taste

O’Learys Seafood Restaurant Owner Wil Peterson never stops trying to improve the customer experience. When he bought the place in 2015, he quickly made a number of changes, including to both the menu and to the decor. 

In the past two years or so, he’s continued to make significant improvements—and just maybe his best to elevate the restaurant. Peterson brought in well-respected Executive Chef Michael Berard from the Country Creek Country Club in Florida in April of 2019. Then in November of last year, he hired Bar Manager Roy Calderon away from another respected Annapolis restaurant.

Their impact has been dramatic. Berard has revamped the menu to enhance O’Learys staple of seafood offerings, and Calderon has done similar things with the drinks. Peterson likes to be hands-on. With these two, it’s almost like he can be hands-off.

“Michael is the first chef I have worked with—even when I was the general manger here—that has the full autonomy to do what he feels like,” Peterson says. “He is really that good. I would say that he is the best chef in town.”

Peterson has similar praise for Calderon, who works very hard at making eye-catching cocktails by spending extra time in the kitchen preparing ingredients even before he serves drinks. “He is like a chef,” Peterson says. “He is in the kitchen three to four hours prior to his shift. I have been unbelievably impressed with him.”

We recently sat down with Peterson and Berard to talk about the chef’s top dishes and Calderon’s top-notch bartending skills.

Why did you decide to hire a new bar manager?

When I first came back (as owner), (the cocktails) were a little lackluster. The beverage program got stagnant. So, I started doing cocktails. I have been a bartender, beverage manager, and beverage director. Even though businesses are slower because of COVID, I have never worked so hard for what we are trying to do. And Roy just seemed like a natural fit. He made me think, “How much do I really know about cocktails?”

Tell me more about what makes him such a standout?

His creativity and ability to keep things fresh. That’s why I brought Roy in. I wanted to bring someone on that could strictly focus on cocktails that start in the kitchen. He can create what he wants and with the different seasons. There are different ingredients he uses. That what sets him and places apart. Roy really showcases what he can do. We are known for our food and wine list, but we want to distinguish ourselves with the cocktails. Roy helps us do that.

What impresses you about Michael?

He has a flair that is really unique. As most chefs are, they are attuned to the different seasons and what produce, and what things are fun. He operates at a different level. He is really special. We order from so many different purveyors, but he focuses on even the smallest ingredients. It’s the special-order stuff that he gets. He is whimsical with items. That’s why I think he has so much fun. He just brings that level of creativity that a lot of chefs in this town don’t have. 

What dishes does he cook that customers love?

He does a halibut dish he puts on with just unbelievable flair. The halibut is a luxury item. The innovation that he uses is just great. It’s papadum-crusted wild halibut. He serves it in a curry coconut tomato broth with basmati rice gingered greens. It’s elegant. When you see it on a plate, it blows my mind on how pretty it is. His scallops are also a delicacy. He serves them over a cauliflower mouse. It’s a lot smoother than a cauliflower puree or mashed potatoes. There’s a lot of work that goes into the cauliflower texture. He adds fennel, which is really awesome. It’s got a pomegranate-beet gel. It’s something else when you see it on a plate. 

Michael, tell me about your background. 

I worked in the area a lot. I started at 14 washing dishes at the Old Blue Channel Inn in Arnold. I eventually left as the chef. I was a sous chef at Harry Browne’s. Then I moved to D.C., where I was chef de cuisine at Asia Nora and later executive sous chef at Proof Restaurant.

Is the reason you took the job at O’Learys because you got homesick?

I really wanted to come back to the area. I was born in Pittsburgh, but I was not raised there. I have lived in Maryland basically my whole life—within a 30-mile radius of Annapolis. I have lived in Arnold and Annapolis. I went to Broadneck High School and Anne Arundel Community College. I left for Florida for about four years, but it wasn’t a place I wanted to settle in permanently.  

What changes did you make to the menu?  

It’s kind of my menu now. There are only a couple things that have been on there from the get-go. Our rockfish has been on there since 1998. I have pretty much done everything else, changing things here and there. It’s like a continental type of approach. I have some Asian- and French-influenced things. Some Mediterranean and crabcake fare. I just don’t like to stick to one style. 

What’s a dish you really like to cook?

We have an Ora King salmon. It’s one of the few farm-raised king salmons. We get it from New Zealand. It’s like a sweet and spicey rice noodle stir fry. I make it with like a house Szechuan chili paste. I use fragrant spices like star anise, cinnamon, and black pepper with Thai chili and scallions. It’s starts with that and I will add red onions, garlic, spinach, rice noodle, and sweet soy sauce. It’s delicious. 

Who have you influenced by?

Haidar Karoum. He was my mentor and an award-winning chef. He had so many accolades from the chef community in D.C. I started working with him back in 2002 at Asia Nora. That’s when I first started to hone my fine-dining skills. He graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in New York. I would say it’s the top culinary school in America. Since I didn’t go to school, I absorbed from him like a sponge.  

Wild Halibut

Serves two

Ingredients

  • 2 lbs. halibut filets
  • 1.5 cans coconut milk
  • 28oz can tomatoes
  • 2 medium onions
  • 1 jalapeno, seeded
  • 3/4-inch ginger knob
  • 2 cups water
  • 1/4 cup rice vinegar
  • 4–5 cilantro stems, chopped
  • 3/4 teaspoon fenugreek seed
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon mustard seed
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon curry powder
  • 3/4 teaspoon turmeric
  • ghee for sautéing
  • crushed papadum flatbread

Directions

Start by sautéing the onions, ginger, cilantro stems, mustard and fenugreek seeds, and jalapeños in ghee. Sweat until soft, about 5 to 8 minutes. Add coconut milk, tomatoes, water, rice vinegar, turmeric, and curry powder, bring to a simmer for 20 minutes. Season with salt and puree in a high-powered blender. For the halibut, season both sides with kosher salt. Press the non-skin side into the crushed papadum. Add to non-stick skillet over medium high heat, papadum side down.  Flip fish after 2 or 3 minutes or until the papadum is golden brown. Finish in a 400-degree oven for 3 to 5 minutes depending on thickness or until done. Cook basmati rice in a one-to-one ratio of rice to water in a rice cooker. Add a half-inch knob of ginger and a pinch of salt and cook according to your rice cooker’s instructions.  Spoon sauce onto plate, followed by rice, then halibut, and top with slaw (see recipe). 

Slaw

Ingredients

  • 1/2 of 1 kohlrabi, julienned
  • 1/2 carrot, julienned
  • 1 tsp chives, fine diced
  • Juice of 1/2 lime
  • 1 tsp olive oil
  • Salt to taste

Directions

Combine and toss all ingredients in a bowl just before plating.


O’Learys Seafood Restaurant
310 Third Street, Annapolis
410-263-0884
olearysseafood.com