When you think about the skincare woes a typical teenager struggles with, the first thing that might come to mind is acne. Most generations have accepted it as, practically, a rite of passage that during the hormonal throes of puberty, kids tend to deal with their fair share of pimples. And while most of us have memories of trying to keep breakouts in check with daily washing and maybe a medicated cleanser if we needed one, the youth of today are taking a much more complicated (albeit much less healthy) approach to skincare.
It’s a trend you might notice if you log onto social media, and it’s one that has some health experts concerned: Kids are into skincare, and not your typical acne prevention. Kids, even some preteens, want to use product after product formulated for adult skin in pursuit of the perfect complexion.
Is this just another harmless trend? Maybe. But pediatricians are saying it’s a trend that could have harmful effects, both dermatologically and mentally. Here’s why.
Yes, kids are into skincare
Not all kids. But many. These teens and preteens are influenced by some of their favorite social media personalities to adopt an unrealistic beauty standard, striving for what’s sometimes referred to as “glass skin.” Dermatologists emphasize that skin with texture so smooth is rarely achievable at any age, even with diligent cleansing and moisturizing. Skin has texture, pores, and blemishes. Nobody’s flat or flawless, but seeing photos and videos that have been edited or filtered lead kids to believe that this is the standard and something they should strive for. For cultural context, it may help to think of extreme thinness that was idealized for young women throughout the ’80s and ’90s, fueling a dramatic increase in eating disorders.
But besides the fact that teenagers are often easily influenced (and subject to poor self-image if shown impossible ideals), teenagers often have specific types of skin problems. Hormonal changes during puberty increase the amount of oil their sebaceous glands produce, and it’s this excess oil that clogs pores and frequently causes pimples and blackheads. Such hormonal changes don’t affect every teenager the same way, which is why some kids tend to have worse breakouts than others. Generally speaking, this excess oil can be kept in control with a gentle over-the-counter cleanser, and an oil-free moisturizer can provide much-needed moisture after cleansing without burdening or irritating the skin.
Adult skincare isn’t for kids
Adults with mature skin have all kinds of reasons for a diligent skincare routine—they want to avoid blackheads and pimples just as teens do, but they also might be trying to reduce wrinkles and eliminate spotting or discoloration. The products designed to treat mature skin problems aren’t formulated in a way that will work well with young skin, particularly hormonal skin. So not only will teenagers suffer poor self-image from this fixation on perfect skin, but also, they might actually end up causing problems that leave them with an unhealthier complexion than they started with.
Young skin is thinner and more sensitive than mature skin. Exposure to too many products can lead to skin damage both in the short term and (unfortunately, sometimes) the long term. Chief among the harmful ingredients are:
Retinol: A common ingredient in anti-aging products, retinol increases skin cell renewal, so it’s good for reducing fine lines and wrinkles when used over time. But on young skin, it can cause retinoid dermatitis, a red, scaly rash that, in its worst form, can itch or burn. Retinol can also leave you susceptible to sunburn and sun damage if it’s applied before sun exposure (hence why it’s intended to be used as part of a nighttime skincare routine).
Hydroxy Acid: This is a type of chemical peel that strips older skin of dead skin cells and other debris much the way an abrasive exfoliant would. While mature skin is strong enough to withstand this chemical exfoliation, it’s often too harsh for younger skin.
Glycolic Acid: This ingredient serves to moisturize skin, but it’s not suitable for younger skin. When young skin is still developing, glycolic acid ends up being an irritant, especially when it’s applied in large amounts.
On top of the problems caused by such ingredients is the way products are applied…well, one on top of the other. Layering up so many skincare products on top of hormonal skin, especially when sealed in with a heavy moisturizer, can upset the skin’s natural pH and microbe balance, leaving skin dried out, red, and flaking.
Adults can set a good example
Maybe the hardest part of all this is the fact that, despite the harms adult skincare routines applied to young skin, kids’ dermatological insecurities are still very real to them. They’re unhappy with their facial skin and want to improve it. If you’re a parent or other influential adult to a kid who wants improved skin, it’s important to talk about how social media is often not a reflection of reality. Reinforce the understanding that skin changes, such as acne or breakouts, during puberty are entirely normal.
If they want to start a healthy age-appropriate skincare routine, the best thing to do is to start with a mild cleanser, specifically one with a pH level closer to the skin’s natural pH. Something basic from the grocery store, such a Cetaphil, is sufficient, as there is no need to buy an expensive premium brand. After cleansing, a mild lightweight moisturizer can stave off any dryness. Finish up with a sunscreen—which, many dermatologists are quick to point out, is the one product they’re happy to see youth taking an active interest in. Avoid any harsh exfoliants or anti-aging products.
Some skin problems may remain even once an adult skincare routine is eliminated and an age-appropriate one is implemented. In these situations, it’s best to take a child to a dermatologist who can provide guidance on specific problems and how to resolve them.
