I hear it often, “I love Malbec”, and what’s not to love. Malbecs are full-bodied and loaded with dark berry fruit aromas and flavors. Plus, their fine balance of acidity, tannins and alcohol, make them extremely food friendly.
In the glass, you’ll notice the intense, inky purple color. On the nose you get aromas of dark cherries, strawberries, plums and in some cases, stewed fruits. When oak aged, the wine will take on aromas of vanilla, coffee and chocolate. On the palate you can expect a burst of fruit flavors.
When you think of Malbec, Argentina comes to mind. Today, Argentina is the largest producer of Malbec in the world but the story doesn’t begin there.
They Grow Malbec in France?
That’s right, like many of the grape varieties we know and love, the Malbec story begins in France. The Romans first planted Malbec in Cahors in southwestern France almost two thousand years ago. The wine produced there became known as the “Black Wine of Cahors” and was popular among kings, popes and tsars.
In Bordeaux Malbec, along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Carmenere are the six noble grape varieties allowed in the production of red wine. Malbec was the dominant grape variety used in Bordeaux until it was surpassed by Cabernet Sauvignon in the late 19th century.
There are many possible reasons for the decline of Malbec in France. The phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th century nearly wiped out all of the Malbec vines. A severe frost in 1956 destroyed about 75% of the Malbec vines in Bordeaux and most of the vines in Cahors. Unlike in Cahors where growers replanted their Malbec vines, growers in Bordeaux replanted with more forgiving varieties like Merlot.
Today, Malbec only makes up a small percentage of the Bordeaux blend with minor plantings in the Loire Valley. It is still however, the main grape variety of Cahors.
Malbec in Argentina
Prior to the phylloxera epidemic, French agronomist Michel Pouget introduced Malbec and other grape varieties to Argentina in 1853. His goal was to create a great wine industry in Argentina patterned after the great wines of Bordeaux.
Unlike in France, where Malbec was never an easy grape to grow, in Argentina it’s almost too easy. Large yields of Malbec were blended with other grapes to make an easy to drink, not so memorable wine. Within a short time, Malbec plantings were declining and replaced by other high-yielding grapes varieties as the Argentine wine industry, due to financial uncertainty, now consisted mainly of inexpensive jug wines.
In the early 1980’s the focus of the industry changed to the production of premium wines for export and with the help of foreign winemakers, Malbec was rediscovered. Now, instead of making their versions of Cabernet and Chardonnay, Argentine producers had their own signature grape.
Today, many areas in Argentina are producing Malbecs but the most highly rated wines are coming from Mendoza. The high altitude slopes of the Andes foot-hills expose the grapes to a combination of extreme sunlight and cool temperatures and the sandy soil is good to the vines and unfriendly to phylloxera and other pests that plagued Malbec in France. The resulting wines are rich and spicy with plenty of fruit.
Malbec and Food
Young, fruity Malbecs will pair up with everything from chili and spaghetti and meatballs to hamburgers and pizza. Full-bodied Malbecs go well with grilled red meats, roasts, barbecue and strong, aged cheeses. French Malbecs are great with roasted or grilled lamb, sausages and strong cheeses.
A Few to Try
The 2018 Chakana Estate Malbec has plum, brambly berries, spices and a floral note on the nose. Intense, fruity flavors with velvety tannins. Priced in the low 20’s.
The 2017 Hinojosa Malbec offers lots of depth and body with aromas and flavors of blueberries and plums with a hint of smoke. Priced in the low teens.
The 2016 Lionel Osmin & Cie Cahors Malbec is dark crimson, almost black in color. It offers aromas and flavors of cassis and blackberries with hints of vanilla, cinnamon and cocoa. Priced in the mid teens.
If you enjoy full-bodied, fruit forward reds go for Malbecs from Argentina. If old world is more your style, try some from France. Better yet, try them both.
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