A question with the owner of D'Alessio's Wood-Fired Pizza, James Cronin
How did the food trailer come about and do I have any partners?
I was an accountant for 10 years with my father's CPA firm. We specialized in handling automobile advertising associations. After the last recession I decided it was time to pursue other interests. I did some small-scale home contracting for a few years and then decided to follow my love for cooking. I've been cooking since I was about 10 or so. I started deep frying turkeys at Thanksgiving and helping my mother with our Italian Christmas dinner making braciole. My passion was always for pizza. After being dissatisfied with options from Annapolis to the beach I started making my own at home about 10 years ago.
My pizza was good, but I needed a high temperature oven that could easily reach and sustain 800 to 1000 degrees Fahrenheit. With my family's support(emotional and financial) I decided to build a trailer with a wood-fired oven inside in 2013. My partners in the business are my mother, father and wife. We decided to set up in the outlets in Queenstown and we operated there from October of 2013 to May of 2015. We had to structure the business like a restaurant. We had to have insurance. We were paying rent to a corporate landlord and we had to deal with all the local and state regulations and codes.
It was perfect training for opening a restaurant. Customers kept asking where our restaurant was, so in late 2014 we aquired a piece of property next to Stevensville middle school and started the permit process. That process, including construction from the ground up, would take two and a half years! After our lease was up in 2015, we sold the trailer and focused all of our attention on the construction and opening of the new restaurant. We opened June 18, 2017.
As far as the ovens go they are called Pompeii Ovens. They are refractory cement (fire clay) domes that have numerous layers of insulation and different types of cement and mortar capable of handling extreme temperatures. After we received the shells for the oven, I had a mason apply two coats of Portland cement, fire clay and sand and then high temperature mortar and Mosaic tiles. The inside of the oven will be over 1000 degrees, yet the outside will be 90. We start the ovens every morning by stacking the wood and hitting it with a blowtorch for a minute or two. Once the wood ignites we push it to the back and the fire builds until it reaches the temperature we need for cooking which is about 800 on the bottom of the oven on the cooking surface and over 1000 degrees at the top of the dome.
The ovens come to temperature so fast because they will retain the heat from the night before so we take the doors off the next morning they will still be at 500 to 600 degrees. The only way we control the temperature in our ovens is with the amount of wood we put in. There is no gas assist on our ovens. We must constantly be aware of the temperature on the cooking surface because if it was too hot it will burn the pizza and if it's too cold it will stick. We use a very moist dough because we're cooking at such high temperatures and that means our pizza must be thin because if we put a thicker crust pizza into the oven it would be burnt on the outside and still raw in the middle. The cook time can range anywhere from 90 seconds to 2 minutes. That's not long enough to get a thicker crust cooked. We also encourage people to limit their toppings because it is such a fast bake. If you overload the pizza it can cause it to be excessively moist.
When it comes to wood we prefer to use oak, but any hardwood will work as long as it is seasoned well and split to the correct size. We're cooking at such high temperatures you don't get flavor from the specific species of the wood. It is a very clean burning, hot fire as compared to a BBQ smoker which is a very low temperature sooty smoke. We use about a cord of wood per week. We source it mainly from local landscapers and tree services. We decided to add more items to the menu about three months after we opened. We were trying to get people trained on the pizza first. We added salads, sides, sandwiches and a couple of pasta dishes and desserts shortly after.
The vegan and vegetarian options came about naturally. Our dough and sauce were already vegan, so all we needed to add was vegan cheese. One of our customers was very persistent about vegan cheese and he persuaded me to add it to the menu and it was a great idea. And we also started with the plant-based burgers before they became a national craze. We used to sell the Impossible Burger, but have switched to the beyond Burger because our supply was cut off due to major contracts that were signed by the manufacturers with national chains. We also offer a gluten-free crust for our pizza that is imported from Italy.
The upside-down or Grandma pizza refers to a pizza that has the cheese down first. Through my process of experimenting with different recipes, I found that putting the cheese down first allowed the dough to bake more and rise slightly instead of being saturated with sauce which would give it a more raw taste. We do have a thin crust, but it will rise because we do not dock the dough, which means taking out all the air bubbles. We leave some in there and just smash the big ones with our hand or pop them during the cooking process. It gives the dough much greater flavor then just a canvas for cheese and sauce.
-James Cronin
