Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
I grew up in Southern California only steps from the Pacific Coast. My father’s speedboat was parked a block away at a boatyard he eventually bought. I learned early in life that the best days began and ended with a trip to the boatyard, so when I was asked to review the Boatyard Bar & Grill in Eastport, only steps from the Severn River, I happily obliged.
On a warm June afternoon, we stopped by on our way to Ocean City and parked on the street in front of a beautifully landscaped garden of potted plants and flowers encircling a large white tent that provides outdoor seating. Next to a signpost pointing toward a variety of exotic destinations like Bermuda—804 miles due east—an artfully decorated front door beckoned us inside. We immediately encountered the mouth-watering scent of freshly cooked fish, Old Bay, and butter—a tantalizing preview of what was to come.
Not far from a boat-shaped bar that offers an attractive roster of cocktails, wines, and beers (we chose the crisp, full-bodied Baltimore IPA on draft), Manager Matthew DeFelice captained the hot station, directing one completed dinner after another to a cadre of culinary couriers. He enthusiastically greeted us, grabbed some crayons and paper for our young boys, and provided a window table with a panoramic view of the surrounding décor—a collage of boats traversing seas near and far covering almost every inch of wall space.
Executive Chef Scott Harrison described today’s daily specials from a seemingly endless rotation (no two days are the same) that collectively includes such delicacies as Atlantic Ocean-caught Halibut and Salmon; Pan-Seared Cape Hatteras Sea Scallops; Crab-Stuffed Maine Lobster Tail; and Habana Swordfish, all complementing regular menu staples like Ahi grade Black N’ Bleu Tuna, their renowned Fish and Chips, Ginger Soy Hanger Steak, and a wide range of sandwiches and salads. We were soon joined by our amazing server Kelly, a veteran with over a decade of experience at the Boatyard. For an appetizer, Chef Scott recommended the Crab and Artichoke Dip, which we paired with Oysters Frites. Owner Dick Franyo, who opened the restaurant in 2001, kindly dropped by to say hello and welcome us.
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
The gluten-free Crab and Artichoke Dip soon arrived, filling a large pan-shaped bowl oozing with melting butter pooling atop a colorful swirl of succulent jumbo lump Maryland blue crab, sauteed spinach, soft artichoke hearts, diced sweet onions, parmesan cheese, and a hint of Old Bay. Accompanied by French baguette slices (baked in Baltimore), the dip was delectable. The crispy Oysters Frites were fried in an incredible buttermilk batter augmented by Old Bay, tangy Louisiana-style seasonings, and a “secret trade mix” of unnamed spices. Savored both alone and immersed in a zesty remoulade dip, the oysters were delicious.
We decided to sample what Kelly called a “six-ounce baseball-size crab cake” that practically required a catcher’s mitt. Holding this incredibly tasty orb of jumbo lump crab together is a razor-thin film of egg sauce, Italian seasoned panko breadcrumbs, Old Bay, and mustard seed that superbly accentuates the crabmeat’s own taste and texture. The single or double crab cake platters come with a hearty scoop of lightly-seasoned Yukon Gold potatoes mashed with butter and garlic, partnered with a bed of steamed yellow squash, zucchini, and broccoli.
Our first entrée was the Sweet Anise Rockfish from the daily specials menu—a grilled, flaky, local striped bass filet with a clean, slightly sweet, and buttery mouthfeel. It tasted so fresh, it must’ve jumped from the Chesapeake Bay to our plate, landing on a thick layer of creamy risotto—a slow cooked arborio rice simmered in chicken broth, onion, and parmesan cheese—with a luscious fennel cream sauce lathered all over. This towering, multi-level dish was then topped with lump crab and watercress leaves and served alongside a huge helping of perfectly cooked asparagus.
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Our second entrée was the Crispy Buffalo Chicken Sandwich, an oversized, deliciously spicy chicken patty dipped in the buttermilk batter and fried to a crackling delight—while remaining remarkably tender on the inside. Engulfed in a house-made, peppery Buffalo sauce and laid on an open-faced bun with lettuce and tomato, the dish was accompanied by a ramekin of bleu cheese and a generous serving of golden-brown French fries.
The boys shared two selections from the mostly $8 children’s menu. Our seven-year-old chose Captain Hook’s Chicken “Fingers” (coated in that buttermilk batter and fried to outwardly crispy/inwardly juicy perfection), while our four-year-old opted for the grilled Boatyard Kiddy Cheeseburger cooked well done. Both meals came with a sizable cluster of those scrumptious fries.
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
We capped the evening with three sweet treats from a list of choices under $10. The Toffee Butter Cake a la Mode featured a river of rich, hot toffee flowing over an incredibly moist butter cake underneath a dome of vanilla bean ice cream, covered in whipped cream, and drizzled with chocolate and caramel sauces. A sugary sensation that didn’t last long! The Boatyard’s Homemade Bread Puddin’ was tall, firm, and cut into two triangles with a frosting of classic Crème Anglaise sauce. The Dessert Nachos that the boys split was simply a masterpiece—a heaping pile of cinnamon tortillas dusted with sugar and crowned with vanilla bean ice cream, whipped cream, raspberry coulis, chocolate sauce, and almond pieces.
We had such a wonderful dinner; it was the nicest day I had spent at a boatyard, so to speak, in 40 years. If you want the finest bounty the Bay and sea have to offer, coupled with an impressive lineup of land-based specialties, all prepared by a seasoned staff that understands how to make dining fun, then Franyo’s popular eatery is it. While my family can’t wait to see what Chef Scott reels in next, a telling compliment came from my youngest son. Walking back to our car, I mentioned that our next stop was Ocean City; he looked up and said, “You mean we’re not in Ocean City?” I smiled and told him almost, but not yet, although it sure felt like it at the Boatyard Bar and Grill.
Boatyard Bar & Grill | 400 Fourth Street, Annapolis; 410-216-6206; boatyardbarandgrill.com
Mark Croatti has worked all over the country from Los Angeles to Washington, D.C. as a caterer, prep cook, and food server at both specialty restaurants and large chains, including preparing meals for major figures in the entertainment industry and professional sports.
