Photography by Tony Lewis, Jr.
Disclaimer: I’m a third generation Italian American; my maternal and paternal great-grandparents left Italy for the United States a century ago. Many of my relatives, who grew up in homes that always had the aroma of marinara sauce, opened their own restaurants. When I finally traveled to Italy 20 years ago and ate my way across the country, I loved watching Italians enjoy a late, unhurried meal that took hours to finish. In eateries often overlooking a skyline or the sea, I experienced a high level of fine Italian cuisine from the fresh seafood of Venice to the incomparable pesto of Genoa to the creative pizzas sold on the streets of Naples. And yet the best food I had was at a simple shop next to a local supermarket. I haven’t yet, but I vowed to return; in the meantime, I promised I’d import their long, indulgent, joyful atmosphere into my daily routine, only to lapse back into the frantic pace of everyday life.
I finally got a chance to keep that promise when my family arrived at Della Notte Restaurant and Wine Bar in Cape St. Claire Plaza, a couple of doors down from Graul’s supermarket, 90 minutes before the big game on Super Bowl Sunday. Not to be confused with Della Notte Ristorante in Baltimore’s Little Italy—which shut down 10 years ago—a new partnership that has connections to Carpaccio Tuscan Kitchen and Wine Bar on West Street owns this Della Notte, which is Italian for “of the night” or “into the night.”
Just past the front door, we saw a spectacular, wall-sized color mural of Venice, complete with a spacious gondola whose gondolier beckoned us to board for a voyage to the dining room, where we were warmly greeted and seated at a corner table. I just love it when an Italian restaurant smells like my grandmother’s kitchen, a nasal symphony of baking bread, boiling pasta, and simmering sauces! The interior is one big semi-divided room separated by a single brown pillar; on the left side are a dozen tables surrounded by walls depicting Italian life—ripe grapes, sun-drenched vineyards, bottled wine, and village alleys with parked Vespas. The other side is a spacious lounge displaying an array of flat screen televisions hovering over a well-stocked bar.
We were immediately welcomed by our friendly server Kenzi, who also brought a basket of rustic bread with nooks and crannies ready to soak up dipping sauce teeming with silky olive oil paired with a sweet balsamic vinaigrette and sprinkled with sun-dried tomatoes and Italian seasoning. The menu is categorized into very reasonably priced meat, seafood, and pasta-based offerings. There are many options on the kids’ menu, as well, all of which cost around $7, come with a drink and a side dish. Kenzi smartly suggested that we choose something that our boys (Christopher, 7 and Emry, 4) could start on, so we selected the pepperoni Flatbread Pizza with French fries and lemonade while also looking over an impressive Captain’s List boasting almost two dozen red and white wines from either Italy or California. The pizza soon arrived, a U-shaped pie sharing a long tray with light, fluffy, golden brown potato wedges. The thin crust was both crisp and crunchy underneath Della Notte’s bold, house made, perfectly-seasoned tomato sauce that superbly complemented the melted mozzarella cheese and crumbly parmesan topping. Absolutely delicious, it not only thrilled our sons, but would also have made Naples proud!
Photography by Tony Lewis, Jr.
Our figurative gondola traveled on to Genoa, where we chose to eat the Gnocchi Al Pesto as an appetizer; it came in a large bowl overflowing with freshly-made dumplings drenched in a velvety pesto sauce with sun-dried tomatoes, pine nuts, and more of that incredible parmesan cheese, this time grated tableside. Once we ate them down to the remaining pesto sauce, Kenzi clairvoyantly arrived with more bread to soak up every drop. We ordered our entrees, plus a Cheeseburger with more fries for our sons to split (a large, plump, medium well patty that tasted like it was cooked on an outdoor grill).
Our gondola soon brought us to Venice for two seafood entrees. The first was Fettuccini Mediterraneo, a big platter of thick, flat noodles intertwined with long, succulent shrimp sauteed in roasted garlic and white wine with large, round, meaty scallops and jump lump crab. The entire dish swims in either a rosé sauce or—our choice—a creamy alfredo stew that’s unseasoned; content to let the rich, hearty cheese share center stage with the shellfish.
Photography by Tony Lewis, Jr.
The second was Linguine Alla Vongole consisting of silver dollar-sized Manila clams that tasted ocean fresh, seasoned in-shell with basil accompanied by roasted garlic and smothered in a tangy trebbiano wine sauce and red chili-infused olive oil. It held the perfect amount of spice that masterfully accentuated all of the ingredients. Both entrees were served with more grated parmesan cheese. As we dabbed at the bottom of the bowls with bread, we noticed the Super Bowl had started; we’d planned to leave by then but the mood continued to be relaxed and leisurely as our gondola seemingly drifted past the seaside cliffs of the Amalfi Coast to our final stop, the Marsala wine producing region of Sicily. Thus, we tried Della Notte’s Chicken Marsala featuring a thick and zesty brown wine reduction sauce that coated the spaghetti and the savory mushrooms and was absorbed into the lightly breaded, tender chicken filet. It simply burst with flavor. Manager April Kurtinitis came over and explained how all of their sauces are not only crafted on premise, but readily made to individual order.
Photography by Tony Lewis, Jr.
Our dessert decisions were difficult as that menu has multiple temptations, all fairly priced. We picked the Chocolate Lava Cake for the boys to share, positioned between two large scoops of vanilla ice cream drizzled with chocolate syrup. I decided on the Créme Brulee, a homemade, buttery custard with a candied top shell of melted sugar. My wife, Darcie, went for the Limoncello, a delectable four-layer lemon sponge cake highlighted by a creamy limoncello frosting that tasted like one big, luscious lemon drop. Both came with whipped cream.
Once we finished eating our way across the menu, I recalled from my trip 20 years ago that the most memorable dining experiences focus on the food. To experience the authentic taste of Italy without getting on a cruise ship or a plane, there’s a gondola waiting for you in Cape St. Claire, and by the end of the night, I guarantee you’ll vow to return.
Della Notte | 1374 Cape St Claire Rd #1374, Annapolis | 410-757-2919 | dellanotterestaurant.com
Mark Croatti has worked across the country from Los Angeles to Washington, D.C. as a caterer, prep cook, and food server at both specialty restaurants and major chains, including preparing meals for major figures in the entertainment industry and professional sports.
