Photography by Tony Lewis, Jr.
A couple years ago, Lime & Salt opened in a nondescript, small shopping plaza in the heart of Odenton and quickly gave the location life. Occupying an end unit with a corner pocket of outdoor patio space, the Mexican restaurant has become quite popular among locals, especially the vast Piney Orchard community. Quite simply, folks are happy to enjoy traditionally-prepared cuisine with vibrant drinks served in a comfortable, engaging atmosphere. And that, friends, was my immediate takeaway from a recent visit on an early-summer evening.
Through a few spits of rain during a quick drive into Odenton, my dinner party (wife and son for this trip) arrived at Lime & Salt at about 5 p.m. on a Thursday and had the choice of indoor or outdoor seating. We stayed indoors, being wary of the weather. The atmosphere was active with patrons starting to fill out the spaces, which includes a full bar with seating, stocked with select tequilas, mezcal, and agave. The décor is tame with hints of Mexican influence—a decoratively painted wall near the open kitchen stands out with patterns that mimic tile. Rust, earthtone, cream, and black colors dominate the other visuals, from floor to tabletop to ceiling. And there’s a few bovine skulls adorning walls, reminding you that it’s a taqueria you’re about the experience.
We had the pleasure of Jennifer serving us this dinner, and she was fantastic with her answers to our questions and recommendations. She took time explaining options, ingredients, and standout dishes and drinks. House nachos and salsa are a palate pleasure from the get-go, and we amped-up our nibbles by ordering homemade guacamole and a zesty queso. The trio of salsa/guac/queso was a great start to dinner; fresh, fun, and filling.
Photography by Tony Lewis, Jr.
Appetizer options include taquitos, flautas, loaded nachos, ceviche, traditional soups, quesadillas (however you like them—with chicken, steak, shrimp, carnitas, etc.), and a couple unique takes: Chesapeake-style guacamole with lump crab, and jalapollos (chicken stuffed peppers).
And what visit to a self-described taqueria and agave bar would be complete without a craft margarita? Jennifer steered me to the 8395 House marg with hibiscus. The tequila used is marinated with several peppers, which gives the drink a noticeable kick of spice. I enjoy “spicy hot.” So, I loved this drink. There are several refined margarita and cocktail options, all with well-curated liquors and ingredients. Choosing wisely is rather easy, and the menu labels which choices are spicy.
We went straight to main courses, having no difficulty finding dishes that spoke to us. Among the fleet of taco offerings, which includes “street” and “house” style selections, I chose Lengua—beef tongue with a verde salsa, cilantro, and onion—to get a taste of Lime & Salt’s take on the traditional dish. My other selection was an entrée of Mole Enchiladas. My wife ordered Fajitas “Agape”—with chicken, steak, and shrimp. And for the boy—a Chicken Taco and side of French fries (Lime & Salt smartly knows that nine-year-olds tend to gravitate to fries versus refried beans).
Beef tongue in a taco makes sense. The meat has the full beef flavor, but the texture is soft, unctuous—an almost melt-in-your-mouth feel. Within the fold of a soft corn tortilla, it felt and tasted delicious. The complementary ingredients enhanced the taco without overpowering the meaty taste. A fine example of the tacos that Lime & Salt puts together.
But what really makes me sing praise for this restaurant is their mole sauce, which drenched the chicken enchiladas. It was stunningly good. I’m a sucker for mole sauce. See it on a menu, any menu…I order it. This sauce is house made with about seven different chilis, nuts, and chocolate. And cinnamon. To my taste buds, the touch of cinnamon put this sauce over the top. Incredibly delicious. The enchiladas themselves were simple. Just seasoned, grilled chicken inside corn tortillas. No extra, filling cheese. The sauce took care of this entrée, served with rice and refried beans for sides.
Photography by Tony Lewis, Jr.
My wife would agree that the best things enjoyed in life—in this case, dinner—are sometimes the simplest. Such is the case with fajitas. Grilled meats, peppers, and onion slivers served sizzling hot on a cast-iron platter with accompanying toppings (salsa, guac, sour cream), all to stuff into warm flour tortillas (which have that super soft texture, different than corn-based), are straightforward ingredients prepared simply and enjoyed easily. Plump morsels of chicken, beef, and shrimp were perfect for mixing and matching into custom, little handholds. She enjoyed them so much that not a bite was left to take home. And our son cleaned his plate. More evidence that what Lime & Salt is doing in the kitchen is working quite well!
We eschewed a sweet ending. But judging from the available desserts of Pastel Tres Leches, Mayan Chocolate Cake, Fried Ice Cream, and Churros, we won’t make that mistake on our next visit.
From the moment we walked into the restaurant, we felt comfortable and, furthermore, had a hunch that excellent, authentic Mexican cuisine must live here. We left Lime & Salt satisfied that every bite, every sip, and every touchpoint of service—from front-of-house to back—lived up to those expectations…and then some.
Lime & Salt | 8395 Piney Orchard Parkway, Odenton | 410-874-6277 | limeandsalt.co
