Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Osteria 177 | 177 Main Street, Annapolis | 410-267-7700 | osteria177.com
Highly respected both for bringing authentic flavors from a wide geographic range in Italy and for the staff’s professionalism, Osteria 177’s ambiance beckons again and again, often for special occasions, in the heart of Historic Annapolis. Executive Chef and Owner Arturo Ottaviano pays special attention to every detail from the clean eclectic décor, with soaring ceilings, to the menu, changing daily, with the name of each dish written in Italian followed by an English description. Thus, our expectation for this visit—a memorable dining experience.
The extremely friendly hostess led us to a table toward the front of the restaurant, which allowed for a quieter meal filled with lots of conversation. We met Dimitri, our sly server, who introduced himself and explained that he has been working at Osteria for a very long time and, to our delight, noted his sommelier certification. He asked if we preferred still water or with “gas.” Bottled water is the rule here.
Do you sometimes find the limited menu in quite upscale restaurants a slight disappointment? You won’t have that problem here. The offerings are numerous, and the menu is a pleasure to peruse, and to so repeatedly, because there are so many temptations to consider. Since Osteria may change its menu every night (depending on availability of items), the specials are written in red. This reading material will give you plenty of time (and an excuse) to savor the warm bread provided, along with extra virgin olive oil for dipping. Bread may not seem all that novel, but this bread is the proverbial “to die for” with its soft pillowy center and crisp edge—truly a standout. Even with the starters, entrees, and desserts we knew we’d be ordering, we just about finished off the bread, dipping into the slightly spicy olive oil—something we (really) try not to do, but couldn’t help ourselves here. With exceptional service and attention, Dimitri explained many of the menu items, while occasionally inserting a joke or two.
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Speaking of starters, we had so thoroughly enjoyed Osteria’s Carpaccio Di Manzo (sliced raw tenderloin beef over arugula with shaved Parmigiano Reggiano, with capers) on a previous visit that we wanted to try their other delightful sounding beef starter: the Bresaola alla Valtellinese. Compared with many other types of cured meat, Bresaola is a bit like a lean prosciutto, usually made with beef filet and sliced paper thin. Bresaola has an IGP trademark (protected geographical indication) limiting its production to certified master butchers in the Lombardy region of Northern Italy. On first bite, my dining companion declared this version far superior to all other cured meats.
It was beautifully presented, on an abundant bed of fresh spinach with deeply flavorful shaved Parmigiana and thinly-sliced, marinated portabella mushroom. A light drizzle of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon was the perfect dressing. The very generous serving saved us from bargaining over who would get the most of it.
For another starter to share, we decided on a vegetable focus, with much loved Burrata cheese as well: Burrata Fresca Con Verdure Alla Griglia. The large ball of Burrata cheese was encircled by roasted red peppers, grilled marinated zucchini, eggplant, cured tomatoes, and Cerignola olives. An excellent choice!
What to drink? Osteria has a handsome, carefully-selected wine list, favoring Italian selections of course, but also a fair number of American wines, and a short but sweet list of specialty cocktails. We had the great benefit of our server being a certified sommelier and my friend took complete advantage of his expertise for recommending an Italian red for an American palate. His guidance was thorough and on the mark, delivered with wit and flair as he brought us the bottle to take a picture of, in case we wanted to put it on our holiday wish list. A sizeable pour of 2019 Piluna Primitivo from Castello Monaci in Italy’s Puglia region was perfect. The grapes come from wetlands where heat causes the fruit to be dark and rich with low tannin. It was robust with pleasing black fruit aroma and notes of pepper and vanilla.
I overheard Dimitri explain the swordfish special of the night to a nearby table, Filetto di Pesce Spada Imperiale, which sounded divine. The swordfish was billed as “harpoon caught.” Harpoon fishing is an “art” that requires patience, talent, and a superior skill for an exceptional product. It is also an environmentally responsible fishing method. The beautiful arrangement arrived with the swordfish steak breaded with a mixture of fresh herbs, garlic, parmesan, and panko crumbs. It was topped with jumbo lump crab meat—and it was truly lump—and finished with a white wine butter sauce. The fish was moist and flavorful, with a slightly sweet taste. A mound of rich mashed potatoes and grilled vegetables were tucked under the large filet.
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
The chill in the night air inspired my dining companion to focus on pasta entrees, an easy decision with Osteria’s creative options, including nice twists on traditional favorites like homemade lasagna (here, made with with wild boar and fresh pasta with ricotta and sweet gorgonzola with creamy porcini sauce). The selection this night was Papardelle al Rague Di Anatra Tartufata: pasta with mushrooms and black truffle duck ragout meat sauce. Who could turn down a dish with precious truffle (currently at $60 per ounce) in the game? Plus, one could choose between housemade pappardelle pasta or gnocchi. The very hearty dish delivered; mouthwatering fragrance and a first bite revealed just the right truffle earthiness and plentiful duck. In fact, the sauce was meatier than most simple pasta dishes, a superb surprise. The pasta was splendid with its sweet freshness complementing the sauce beautifully. We agreed that the dish may have benefited from a bit of parsley or other colorful garnish to balance the “look,” but when there’s a glorious option to indulge in a truffle-related dish, there are no complaints.
True Italian food lovers will delight in the authentic desserts of Zabaglione, Tiramisu, Tartufo, gelato, and Panna Cotta. The standout Tiramisu was sampled on my last visit, so tonight we decided on the light but rich Panna Cotta, literally meaning “cooked cream”—a dish from the Piedmont region. The gently molded Panna Cotta had a silky, creamy texture with a milky, sweet taste from the cream in the dish. It was accompanied with fresh raspberries, strawberries, and two very large blackberries, all dusted with confectioners’ sugar. For a finale, we sipped the beautiful cappuccino, served dry with a bountiful foam. Dimitri left us with the quote, “Don’t be sad you have to leave, just be glad you came!”
