Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
For the past year and a half, many of us felt adrift without our favorite Spanish tapas to share and savor with good company. Now, with COVID-social distancing lifted, we are absolutely delighted for the communal activity of partaking tapas, for which Jalapeños is famous. Spirited with lively conversation and laughter, this favorite spot is where everyone can come together and grab a good bite that is exotically foreign. The atmosphere is comfortably grand yet unstuffy and dress code is casual, yet nice. On this weekday early evening Jalapeños was filled with a congenial mix: family with young baby, millennials, elderly couples, and friends celebrating or just dining together. Both dining rooms (plus the bar) were filled, so you know what to do about reservations!
Because true Spanish food is unusual, I wax eloquent about it, but there is abundant Mexican food and a smattering of Cuban. Start with chips and salsa then move on to tacos, tostados, burritos, enchiladas as the menu makes the segue nicely to each culture. Instead, we ordered a plethora of incredible Spanish Tapas as our meal.
Service was courteous although the restaurant was very busy and from our chat we learned our server, Obed, is part of a family tree with the original chef, Obed Serrano. Owner Uncle Alberto welcomes at the front of the house and circulates to check in on how your meal is going. That graciousness goes a long way. If the going gets dicy, Alberto may even take your order as he did for us.
My dinner guest enjoyed a crisp white wine, the house Alberino, from the north Atlantic coast of Spain, which turned out to be a light companion with the abundant flavors of our tapas. Wines by the glass are limited, but a wine list offers full bottles. Sangria, the fitting fruit and wine combo, can be ordered with red wine, white, or even champagne.
To ensure room for our dinner of tapas, we ordered a small cup of Gazpacho. It was a beautiful thick creamy, pink/orange color, with a tangy flavor and hints of cucumber and mild vegetables. Though we were anticipating a fiery kick, the flavor was mild and ever so fresh. A server brought a tray of bite-size toppings that she spooned as we desired on the soup: croutons, diced cucumbers, minced onion, and chopped tomato. Our only regret was not ordering the bowl size, it was that delicious.
The Solomillo de Cerdo al Jerez tasted like a special occasion dish with ultra-tender pork tenderloin smothered in a sweet sherry cream sauce. A scoop of tiny cut roasted potatoes rested in the sauce and were crazy good.
A favorite of the evening was the Chuletitas de Cordero con Mezcal. What›s not to love about a lamb chop cooked to order, medium rare, marinated with herbs, and soaked in mezcal? Chef Obed’s accompanying pesto sauce was a thick and delicious jalapeno-based sauce with a slight bit of heat.
Wanting to experience more saffron dishes and eat succulent scallops, we ordered Vieras con Azafran. Two large golden-edged sea scallops with freshly sautéed spinach were perched in a pool of delicate saffron sauce redolent with that prized spice. All of our tapas had uniquely rich sauces, so we ordered warm rolls to soak up the bountiful flavors that in themselves make a meal!
Carne de Buey en Jugo (Grilled Hanger Steak) arrived with a roasted piquillo chili and olive oil sauce. The grilled exterior essence of the four-inch-long steak was a standout in this simple preparation. And the steak from the upper stomach of the animal (one of the most tender cuts) arrived as ordered—medium rare. The small amount of piquillo added contrast to the meat and au jus.
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Montadito de Gambas y Mermelada de Higo was built on toasted bread; actually, a sophisticated bruschetta. The half-inch toast was spread partially with a not-too sweet fig concoction and anchored with a cooked shrimp atop. Finely shredded Manchego cheese dotted the morsels.
The dessert menu offered elegant, sweet treats, coffee drinks, port, sherry, and brandy. Though we were sated from numerous tapas, a bout of concentrated chocolate to share seemed fitting, along with dark rich coffee after many little bites. Pure dense fudge is the apt description of Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Sauce. The three layers of cake had about equal portions of dense fudge frosting, and whipped cream was piped around the edges.
In restaurant years, Jalapeños is a grandaddy, but the interior still invites with Spanish ranch-style dark wood furniture, an elegant fireplace, wrought iron chandeliers, small, tiled tables scattered here and there, and a high standard of cleanliness. Jalapeños originally opened in May of 1999 and co-owner, Gonzalo Fernandez, was always seen at the front of the house. Gonzalo retired before COVID even existed, while his congenial partner, Alberto Serrano now works very hard to keep the Latin cuisine alive.
Jalapeños | 85 Forest Plaza Drive, Annapolis | 410-266-7580 | jalapenosonline.com
