The Not So Hidden Pearl
Ruth’s Chris in Odenton may seem a little removed from the hustle and bustle of nearby Waugh Chapel or Hanover, but we found this lightly hidden pearl to be a gem. As Ruth’s Chris goes into year two, this location appeared to be booming on the evening of our visit.
Like its sister locations, Ruth’s Chris offers valet parking, sizzling hot plates, and a bit of classy glam. Deep silver walls frame a sea of rich wood, luxe granite table and bar tops—very au courant colors—and a beautiful sheen in the low (but adequate) lighting. If you had any idea that Ruth’s Chris was “old school,” this fresh decor will dispel that notion. One feels sophisticated and pampered by attentive servers in a private booth, featuring a striking chandelier, enclosed by floor to ceiling drapes for drama or privacy.
We loved browsing the interesting libations. You’re doing your soul a favor when you sample a curated cocktail. The term means that someone knowledgeable has selected the best ingredients— spirits, French and Italian aperitifs, and sundry complementary enhancements like bitters, syrups, infused oils, fruit, and even vegetables and herbs. Determined to extend that summer feeling despite a dreary evening that prevented us from charming patio al fresco dining, my friend ordered the Strawberry Basil Gimlet with Hanger 1 vodka. It couldn’t have been prettier or tastier—bright and fresh with the house-made strawberry puree and large fresh basil leaf and strawberry garnish. It was, “pitcher-worthy,” and wish granted, the martini glass was not only full when served, but accompanied by a fetching cocktail shaker, with sufficient reserves to top off the glass not once, but twice. There are also some excellent throwback curated cocktails—Port of Manhattan, Blackberry Sidecar, Gambler’s Old Fashioned, and Moscow Mule.
It was a challenge deciding what starters to select, given the intriguing choices, and our arrival during happy hour gave us the opportunity to try the offerings with special prices. We both chose “surf” starters ahead of our “turf” main courses. Eight substantial Ahi tuna slices arrived, pooled with sauce, on an elongated platter with a bouquet of sliced cucumber, red onion, and pickled ginger. My compadre chose spicy lobster, which was lightly fried with a pleasing hint of crisp texture. The succulent lobster’s spicy sauce was added with just the right touch to assure that the fresh meat would shine. Set in a bed of shredded Napa cabbage and scallion greens, the dish was both picturesque and fragrant.
We perused the menu and noticed the chef’s feature page highlights any fresh fish and Ruth’s classic dinners or prix fixe at special tiered prices, which include a starter, entrée, and dessert for one. A note here that Ruth’s Chris will accommodate dairy- and gluten-free diets. My companion selected one of the chef’s feature dinners and went with the ribeye entrée—a full 11-ounce plateful. Now you know why we had been careful to choose a light seafood starter. Thank you, Ruth’s Chris for double-plating the behemoth sizzler’s hot plate on a cool plate separated by a linen napkin for easier handling. Perfectly grilled to medium rare as requested. It was nicely marbled and mouth-watering. The Romaine-wedge salad stood out from several tempting options: classic Caesar salad, house salad, and a novel-sounding soup. It was a welcome surprise to see a “planked updated” version of the classic wedge revival: a split head of Romaine (a “right-size” whole one) dressed with a colorful medley of chopped bacon, corn, and blue cheese crumbles. You can choose your own dressing from several house-made options, but would you want anything other than blue? We even asked for extra and were readily accommodated.
There are great non-steak entrees as well and I was up for some quality lamb. I learned the three five-ounce chops are from the rack and that sealed the deal. They arrived sizzling, as the thick heroes on the plate. I chose Cremini mushrooms bubbling with juices in their own skillet as their accompaniment.
In case you share my recent experiences where dessert menus just round up the usual ho-hum suspects, we chose wisely to indulge in the chef’s feature menu offering. Dessert is included in the prix fixe, so we shared a lemon cheesecake bar with walnut crust, garnished with berries and cream. Two petite triangles were perfectly portioned. We paired it with French press rich decaf. It was also delicious.
Given the size of the entrees, doggy bags are inevitable, and we certainly were no exception. We have to admit sometimes the food tastes even better the next day. Be aware that prices aren’t listed on the online menu, so calculate that a full meal will cost around $100 per person.
Ruth’s Chris is often considered a special event restaurant. And why not, when the celebrated person’s table is sprinkled with rose petals? A complementary dessert is also a bonus for milestone events.
