The Friendly Cantina Vibe
Locals know the best spots to eat. That’s why so many stay in Cape St. Claire and flock to the Broadneck Grill & Cantina for authentic Mexican fare. For fiesta or casual dining, the food and atmosphere are on point.
It’s no wonder Broadneck Grill boasts a 25-year run of success. They are rolling back prices from March 10th to the 14th to celebrate their anniversary. Whether you are a local or not, it just feels like part of the neighborhood. Owner Donna Duran says she’s met most of her friends at the two restaurants. The other, the Cantina II in Edgewater, opened in 2014 with an identical menu and the delicious food keeps Edgewater and south county residents coming back. Duran’s fare is predominately cantina cooking, but there’s a smattering of Chesapeake favorites: crab soup, crabcakes, and classic American items like burgers and a club sandwich.
From host to servers, the staff is warm and accommodating. Our waiter, Alfonso, knew the menu, the specials, and how dishes were prepared. We asked for a few substitutions, and without hesitation, every request was met.
If you are thirsty, there’s no shortage of drink options. While looking over the large specialty drink menu, we considered ordering the Spicy Neighbor, which includes Herradura Silver, Elderflower liquor, fresh grapefruit juice, and a muddled jalapeno with a salted rim. A festive cranberry margarita or a mojito of various fruits (mango or pineapple) also seemed appealing. My dining companion ultimately decided on the special Winter White Sangria, which is very popular at the bar. The sangria was delicate and peachy, but not too sweet. The bar was filled with gentle laughter and is known to be a great spot for happy hour.
In the never-ending search for authenticity and variety, longtime chef Venustiano Bravo travels to his native Mexico each year and returns with creative menu ideas that he prepares as monthly specials. We perused the extensive specials menu and the larger year-round menu. Since the specials are outstanding and the desserts are homemade, we had to pace ourselves. Duck tacos with a cherry chipotle sauce and the Oh My Gourd enchilada were especially appealing. The Maximiliano Burrito with the New York Strip Steak elevated this staple dish. We arrived on Taco Tuesday night. It’s all you can eat beef or chicken tacos for $9.95—a great deal for a family.
Wanting a taste of the creative specials, we split the Stuffed Acorn Squash as a first course. The rotund winter squash was filled with zesty seasoned chicken topped with ranchero sauce, Monterey jack cheese, and pico de gallo. The spicy red sauce with the sweetness of the acorn squash and the oozing cheese dripping over the top made it a hit.
Chamorro-lamb shanks were so popular as a special that it earned a permanent spot on the menu. I came to try it and was not disappointed. The shank—the lower part of the leg, from the knee down—is one of the toughest cuts you can find on a lamb. But what makes it impossible to sauté is what makes it ideal for braising, and slow and low roasting, until the meat falls off the bone. That’s the way Broadneck prepares Chamorro. Chamorro is said to be the Mexican cure for hangovers and it is usually served on Sunday afternoons, so you could call it comfort food. This is the real deal, an authentic Mexican specialty offered under the grill menu. Grill entrees come with a table-size loaf of bread and delicate honey butter, salad, rice, and black beans. Alfonso and the kitchen obliged to trade my rice for a vegetable, verdant broccoli spears.
My compadre chose New York Strip Steak fajitas, and they had a whole lot of sizzle. They arrived in the traditional fiery skillet housed in a wooden tray. Rice, black beans, smooth guacamole, and sour cream were served as sides for the freshly sautéed bell peppers and onions that were mixed with thin tender steak slices. Only warm flour tortillas work here, and they came in their own lidded container.
As we pondered the popular desserts—all made in-house—Alfonso suggested the fried ice cream, Tres Leches, and Magothy Mud Pie. His favorite, and among the most popular deserts, is the Strawberry Cake, which is nearly eight inches tall. However, we sampled the Chocolate Mousse Cake. It consisted of three fudge cake layers sandwiched with chocolate mousse. The entire gateau was wrapped with whipped cream and bound by a deep chocolate ganache. This gets a top rating!
The decor is unassuming yet comfortable. Large black and white photos of Broadneck Peninsula hang on the walls—conversation pieces of an era of few houses, one Bay Bridge, and an abundance of oysters. Adjacent diners pointed out the former Labrot racetrack stables. Definitely a neighborly crowd.
Duran is civic minded and uses her Cinco de Mayo fests as fundraisers for the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation. Always an enthusiastic marketer, she now offers monthly wine pairing dinners at both locations.
