Lewnes' Steak House | 401 Fourth Street, Annapolis |410-263-1617 | lewnessteakhouse.com
On restaurant row in Eastport, Lewnes’ Steak House claims a famous corner, which walks you back in time as if in an old movie. This is where local folks find quiet intimacy in the renowned steak house, in a town that thrives on tourists. This fourth-generation restaurant is still owned and operated under the family name by brothers Sam and Mack.
Retro to the tune of a Frank Sinatra club, the interior is devoid of any fussiness. High-back leather booths fill the narrow room of pine-painted walls. Black shaded steakhouse low-level lighting, white table linens, and a hushed sound level give an intimate appeal. In the small dining room where we were seated, every booth had a tall narrow window for peeking into the vast wine cellar.
It was a quiet Sunday evening and we were greeted by two managers and shown to our booth while servers circulated in crisp white jackets. Brian introduced himself as our server, took our drink order and answered any, and all, food questions, and relayed the safety precautions the restaurant has taken for the pandemic.
While the diminutive bar still makes a Manhattan with two parts whiskey to one-part vermouth, no one was seated there due to the COVID-19 precautions, but we knew all gears were still functioning. Lewnes’ gets you in the mood for the wine list while offering an exceptional wine cellar, which promotes terroir as stated on the wine menu:
“Understanding that fine wines are a delicate creation (subject to changes in climate, availability, allocation, and demand), this menu is constantly revised to maintain an accurate representation of only the most superb wines currently available.”
There are actually two wine menus. One for Vertical Offerings, which highlights one wine varietal of the same producer from several vintages. This vertical menu leans heavily on Napa Valley creations and is scattered with a few French and Italian selections. The second immense menu from the cellar is specially curated, winning many “Awards of Excellence” from Wine Spectator Magazine. These award plaques are proudly posted on the restaurant entrance walls.
There are 15 wines offered by the glass or if two glasses are the choice, Brian suggested a half-bottle. My friend asked for a sample of the Crazy Creek Vineyard–Katherine Goldschmidt Cabernet. Finding it splendid, she ordered a glass. Loaded with berry flavor, smooth, and medium bodied, it was perfect.
“Quietly civilized and understated” is an appropriate description for a minimal menu—only six appetizers after all, with a throwback to classic standards. Clams Casino anyone? Brian asked if we would like bread with our meal and our warm onion round filled in nicely while we awaited our Oysters Rockefeller to share and continued absorbing the rest of the menu.
There is one soup and just three salads, one of which is the signature Greek Salad with an undisclosed dressing. This is an accolade to the Lewnes’ Greek family ownership and is still featured close to a century later after the restaurant was opened by Sam Lewnes, a migrant from Greece, who had first tried his food hand by purchasing a food cart in New York.
Oysters Rockefeller can vary in number here, depending on the size of the oysters. Tonight, we shared six bivalves, buried in creamy spinach and topped with a fluffy hollandaise. A squeeze of lemon from the half, wrapped in netting, brightened each one.
For the entrees: the Nightly Special was simply different sizes of lobster from their Maine supplier. Otherwise, the entree choices continue to feature tried-and-true favorites.
A Prime-aged steak should stand on its own without embellishments, save the butter when broiled at 1,800 degrees. At Lewnes,’ they are resolute about their steaks being corn-finished, yielding ribbons of fat left untouched. Optional Bearnaise or peppercorn sauce? You do need to request it, as I did the Bearnaise, and found it had a nice tarragon afterglow. Foregoing the 40-ounce Tomahawk Ribeye, my Cowboy 25-ounce Ribeye Steak (bone-in), arrived in all its glory being just over two inches thick! Melted butter oozed over the nicely-browned crust created by equal portions of simple spices: salt, pepper, and granulated garlic. Tender and juicy, I had asked for medium-rare, leaning more toward red, and that is exactly what I got.
My dining friend had been set on the huge lamb chops of memory, although now they are served as the “popsicle” cut. She made a switch and ordered Garides Scortholemono, intrigued by the description of Aegean influence. The six shrimp were large, plump, and moist, and served over an immense bed of white rice, which had been cooked in chicken broth and doused with loads of butter. The Aegean Sea lies between Greece and Turkey, so a spice blend of this region leaves much to the imagination, but we thought we identified thyme, garlic, and oregano.
Sides are large enough for two and we decided to try Spinach à la George over the Creamed Spinach we would normally love to share. Fitting for hot summer weather, large lightly sautéed green leaves were perked with pronounced garlic and bits of translucent onion.
Brian told us that on the dessert menu, the famous Brownie à la mode and the Pecan Pie (or pecan square) are made in house. Our choice, the Pecan Square, arrived partnered with a hefty scoop of flavorful vanilla ice cream. Toasted pecans topped the creamy filling, but our wish was for a slightly more buttery crust (our favorite part) to support the dessert.
Lewnes’ is often saved as a dining spot for celebrations; in fact, that question is asked when making a reservation. Make sure to mention your special occasion at this spot which “sings a different tune” than other franchise steak houses, being a historic family-owned steak destination!
