The orchid grows where others cannot, enduring the hardships of hunger and thirst, and is loosely tied to the things that support it. And, even with all the difficulty of its life, the orchid graces the world with beautiful colour and rare fragrance.—Confucius, from a translation by Jonathan Steffen
Perhaps you’ve received a lovely spray of orchids as a gift or picked up a tiny, potted orchid on the sale table in the grocery store. Well, if you did, I hope you had more luck than I at keeping that lovely plant alive and blooming. But if you’ve found growing orchids difficult, or if you are simply toying with the idea of adding orchids to your houseplant collection, this article may be of help.
I interviewed Carol Allen, the Orchid Lady, a regional authority on growing orchids (orchidlady.net). Allen teaches, lectures, records videos, and does clinics where gardeners bring their ailing orchids for diagnoses and treatments. She is funny and wise, and truly enjoys plants and people of all varieties.
The Orchid Lady assures me that growing orchids is easy. The pointers below will apply to most orchids, but Allen suggests gardeners just getting started try Moth Orchids (phalaenopsis). They’re pretty and forgiving if their growing needs are not always perfectly met. There are three basic requirements. If you get these right, your orchids will delight you for years to come; they can live to be 100.
1. LIGHT:
In our mid-Atlantic region, two to three hours of fairly direct sunlight through a window should keep your orchids happy. If your windows are the new UVA or UVB high-efficiency light-filtering glass, longer sunlight exposure may be necessary.
2. WATER:
If we remember that orchids are bromeliads, we can follow the same schedule and use the same techniques. Water thoroughly and let the plant drain. Do not allow the roots to sit in standing water. Water again when the plant’s soil feels dry. If the leaves are dusty, gently wipe them with a damp cloth. If your home is dry, create a shallow evaporation dish; let the orchid’s pot sit on the gravel or stones above the water.
3. POTTING:
Although there is some controversy on this topic, Allen urges plastic pots for orchids. The plastic pot holds the dampness. The clay pot dries out quickly—perhaps too quickly for the orchids. Do not allow mineral salts to build up in the soil. If you see chalky powder collecting, remove the plant from its pot, clean the pot and replace contaminated soil. Carol recommends a peat-based potting soil, for example Premix or ExPona. The planting medium should be light, allowing air to get to the roots.
Okay, you’re still with me on this? Let’s move on to selecting a healthy orchid specimen to buy.
There are 3 types of orchids that are relatively easy to care for:
Moth Orchids (phalaenopsis)—habits similar to African Violets.
Corsage Orchids (cattleya)—they’re more forgiving of very sunny locations.
Dancing Lady Orchids (oncidium)—lovely blooms and comfortable with temperatures below 80° F.
Watch for these qualities when choosing a specific plant:
Choose a plant with many buds and only a few open flowers. You’ll have the pleasure of watching these closed buds unfold.
Check for firm, bright green leaves; be sure there are no dried or squishy leaves near the soil. Also, check that the visible roots are not brown or shriveled.
Unless you can move your plants in-and-out every day, orchids do not work as outdoor plants in the mid-Atlantic region. Avoid leaving an orchid in a hot or cold car, even for a short time. The plant is extremely sensitive to temperature and can be damaged or killed.
Since water is such a vital part of caring for orchids, there are differences of opinion on technique.
I spoke about the plastic vs. clay pot debate – which best controls the moisture level in the planting medium. Plastic pots allow the water to evaporate more gradually. But, clay pots allow for better aeration of the growing medium.
There’s a watering debate around ice cubes. For a 7–8 inch pot, there is a consensus that three ice cubes per week will provide sufficient water. Just lay the cubes under the leaves, on the soil or stag moss. You can check moisture level by observing the roots. If the roots are silver, the orchid needs water. If the roots are green-ish, the plant is fully hydrated.
You will want to repot your orchid annually. Remove the pot and gently clear the soil from among the roots. Look for any softening or rot among the roots. Also check that there is no salt buildup, those chalky particles I mentioned previously. Use a pot that is just big enough to give the roots room to spread; do not overdo it on the size. Make sure the drainage holes are open and clear, then add growing medium and the orchid.
Don’t worry. This may all sound like a lot of work, but once you’ve begun to enjoy the lovely blossoms on your orchid’s stem, all the work and worry will fade. Orchids really are quite hardy. They’ll be content with very little attention, once you have the right windowsill and a watering routine.
