2625 Riva Road, Stes. A and B, Annapolis | 410-573-2961 | lasierrarestaurantinc.com
If it’s chile peppers, corn, beans, cilantro, and all things tortilla-wrapped you’re craving...enter La Sierra, a somewhat new authentic Mexican restaurant with roots in Queretaro, Mexico.
Adding to the Mexican authenticity, a group of young males (family, possibly?) of the country greeted us at the host station. We were immediately seated and a basket of chips and a small carafe of salsa were delivered. The salsa was poured into a small dipping bowl and then left on the table; a nice touch.
Catalina Landaverde takes the lead here with a strong restaurant background. She oversees the workings of La Sierra. Originally from Queretaro, Mexico, Landaverde and her four siblings own four authentic Mexican restaurants in the area: Queretaro and Mi Casita in Gambrills, Rinconcito in Odenton, and La Sierra in Annapolis. They created different names for each to stay away from the franchise mentality as Catalina feels people welcome independent family-owned eateries.
Located within a series of scattered cafes and retail sidling up to business complexes along Riva Road, you have to drive within the complex to enter the front door of La Sierra, so keep your eye out for their signage. The crowds have found it however, and that night, there was a large party celebrating a birthday, while families poured in during the dinner hour.
We were happy to see the menu was heavy on avocado. Flavorful refried pinto beans are a must, as are intricate chile-based sauces. I had dined here before where Chile Rellenos were excellent—fluffy, with a light breading and an abundant oozing cheese stuffing. Spinach Enchiladas beckoned but I had sampled these lush corn-wrapped cheese/spinach parcels before and needed to continue exploring the menu. Enchiladas Poblanas were tempting: three chicken enchiladas topped with a dark mole poblano sauce. You don’t see a lot of mole sauces in Annapolis-area restaurants, and that was a welcome item on the menu. The lunch menu offered two egg dishes, which could serve as brunch or lunch. Huevos Rancheros with fried eggs or Huevos con Chorizo with scrambled egg were a real value.
La Sierra is definitely serious about its Latin-based drink offerings with more than 100 tequilas on hand and the most creative margarita menu we’ve seen—nine variations, most quite different afield from the usual standards. There were a few with a jalapeño spin that the website list doesn’t mention, so make sure to check when you are there. But on this sultry summer eve, my friend opted for the house-made sangria. An icy thirst quencher with a pleasing balance between sweet and tart with a sprightly orange wedge. We declared it a truly adult sangria, mercifully free of the overly sweet versions common today. The extensive other beverage options need mention from nine flavors of Mexican soda along with American favorites, as many Mexican beers, as well as others, popular American mixed drinks, and a variety of wines. Definitely something for every imbiber’s or teetotaler’s taste.
My friend has said many times that she could survive well on a desert island, as long as there’s a lime tree to make fresh ceviche. So, I knew that would be her appetizer pick. Bright and fresh with minced jalapeños and tomato, the dish sported several very fresh shrimp and hearty chunks of fish, served with crispy large blue corn tortilla rounds for scooping, a nice contrast with the flavorful yellow chips that we munched on while perusing the menu. She was very happy, albeit, those jalapeños were super hot!
I was pleased to find traditional Pozole soup on the menu. Pozole always contains hominy corn which has been processed to remove the germ and plump each kernel. The version tonight had traditional pork (although some may use chicken). The rich pork broth is seasoned with a combination of herbs and spices majoring in oregano here, and it’s served with a side salad of radishes, avocados, cilantro, diced jalapeño, and lime juice. A note of warning: The bits of chile pepper were also fiery hot!
We’ve seen some pretty hefty meat portions lately, but La Sierra takes first place with their carne asada beef. What word comes after behemoth? Now, “ribeye” prep from south of the border is wholly different than the steakhouse version, so be prepared. This is thinly sliced horizontally, and you may want to ratchet down your done-ness request—perhaps rare instead of medium rare to be sure it’s to your liking. Two enormous slices of beef covered the hot platter along with sprightly grilled spring onions...including their large bulbs, novel cactus, and check, more avocado, rice, and a rich version of refried beans. (You can opt for black beans instead.) Plus, a side basket of warm blue corn tortillas. No one could possibly go home hungry!
As with some of the other dinner specials, La Sierra has their own interpretation over new American style restaurants in Annapolis. The Pescado a La Mexicana I ordered revealed two thin filets of red snapper buried under a blanket of grilled onions and bell pepper strips. I asked for a side of salsa verde to sample more of their sauces. A platter of rice and beans was served on the side.
We were eyeing the sweet crispy churros for dessert, but with full doggie bags in hand, we had to stop ourselves!
