Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
While I can relate to what restaurant staff go through, having worked in my youth at national chains, I do have certain expectations. In my day, we prided ourselves on connecting with our guests by greeting them warmly, making sure they never waited long for their meals, and quickly providing everything they needed to enjoy their meal.
Fortunately, I know a place where the staff understand that old-time connection: Miss Shirley’s Cafe.
Founder Eddie Dopkin opened the first Miss Shirley’s in Roland Park in 2005, focusing on Southern style “comfort” food for breakfast, brunch, and lunch. His impressive menu of unique and creative dishes earned glowing reviews in major publications and television shows on Food Network. Once his regional reputation spread and national profile grew, three new locations followed, including uptown Annapolis in 2011. Miss Shirley’s Cafe knows that “comfort” has many forms; the restaurant has prepared meals for first responders and others impacted by Covid-19 and they donate to a long list of schools, nonprofits, and charities in Maryland.
My family walked in on a sunny Saturday at noon and we were greeted enthusiastically and seated immediately. The hosts were joyful, the staff had smiles on their faces, and people already eating looked thrilled to be there. However, what struck me most as we were led to our table was how wonderful everything smelled—a symphony of omelets, pancakes, and smoked meats.
We were seated just outside the kitchen, with a view of their chefs in action. As soon as my wife and I sat down, our waitress, Starr, greeted us heartily and passed out activity sheets for our young boys (almost 7 and just turned 4). Starr is aptly named; whenever we looked up, she was there, a bright light who guided us with care along our culinary journey.
Miss Shirley’s Cafe offers an imaginative lineup of “Mornin’ Cocktails” like Pineapple Mango Margarita and That’s My Jam! Peach Maple Smash. Peach and maple in the same drink? Sadly, I had to pass because I was working—this time. We could smell the Chesapeake Coffee Roasters percolating nearby, so we both ordered that and two hot chocolates. Once the beverages arrived, Star took our food order.
While the Kids Box option includes an entrée, side, and drink, my sons couldn’t take their eyes off of the Buttermilk Pancakes with Crushed Oreo Cookies special display on the table, which they shared along with added sides of Applewood Smoked Bacon and Sage Pork Sausage. Four giant pancakes soon appeared, stacked high, each one the size of a pie and loaded with Oreos in every bite—with three additional layers—more Oreos crushed on top, orange M&M’s with the Orioles logo, and orange colored (not flavored) whipped cream. Who knew that Oreos and pancakes were born to be together? The bacon was long and crispy, and the sausage was tangy, neither greasy nor dry, just perfect.
My wife and I decided we’d start with some appetizers. As someone born in Maryland and a former Baltimorean, she wanted to try the Charm City Crab Soup. The first taste that hits you is succulent crab like it was pulled straight from the shell, and plenty of it, complemented—not overpowered—by a rich broth. It was sweet and smartly only a tad spicy, overflowing with chunks of stewed tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, and green beans. It was so good it inspired us to select the Crab Hash & Fried Green Tomato Eggs Benedict as one of our shared entrées, along with the Pratt Street Pulled Pork BBQ Grilled Cheese sandwich—but first we wanted to sample their famous deviled eggs.
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
We struggled over whether to choose the Mango BBQ Shrimp or the Hot Honey Fried versions, so we ordered both and were so glad we did! On one plate, the perfectly seasoned deviled eggs were topped with savory shrimp covered in a tangy, smoky, mango glaze with green onions and bacon bits, while the second plate presented egg whites deliciously paired with goat cheese within a crispy, deep-fried ball, topped with more deviled egg and covered with a sweet honey drizzle that just kicked it into gear! Both versions were creative, complementary combinations, blended to perfection in just the right amounts so that the taste of each ingredient was noticeable in every bite.
The Crab Hash & Fried Green Tomato Eggs Benedict allowed us to try a variety of their favorites at once. Their legendary fried green tomatoes were center stage on the dish, sweet on the inside with a crispy batter on the outside, surrounded by two poached eggs with runny yolks flowing like a river under an avalanche of roasted corn, red peppers, and green onions, all topped by more of that amazing crab meat, then covered with hollandaise, chives, and Old Bay seasoning. To experience the full taste bud explosion, I highly suggest getting all of that in every bite. On the side was their renowned grits—light, fluffy, and sprinkled with bits of tomatoes and chives.
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Our second entrée, the Pratt Street Pulled Pork BBQ Grilled Cheese sandwich, featured roasted pork, tenderized and slowly cooked in a beef and chicken stock with apple cider vinegar, layered with pimento cheese and topped with a zesty BBQ sauce that brings out the flavor of the juicy, melt-in-your mouth pork. The sourdough bread, baked in Baltimore, is lightly toasted, and brushed with avocado oil and parsley.
We left not only satisfied, but immensely curious about the rest of the menu. Rare is the restaurant that both thrills you with what you ordered and fills you with envy over what you didn’t! (It’s important to note that Miss Shirley’s offers a seasonal menu of original dishes and drinks, which will have updated anew by the time this review reaches you.) And if imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, then the best compliment I can pay Miss Shirley’s Cafe came later, the following Saturday, when my sons wanted to replicate their experience by cooking pancakes at home and topping them with crushed “Boo” Oreos. They were overjoyed to be “back” at Miss Shirley’s Cafe.
Miss Shirley’s Cafe 1 Park Place, Annapolis | 410-268-5171 | missshirleys.com
Mark Croatti has worked across the country from Los Angeles to Washington, D.C., as a caterer, prep cook, and food server at both specialty restaurants and major chains, including preparing meals for major figures in the entertainment industry and professional sports.
