Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
When we honeymooned in Cancún in 2015—the same year Mi Lindo Cancún Grill opened in Annapolis—my wife and I traveled to Mexico’s Riviera Maya, with three distinctly regional adventures: A tropical, Caribbean paradise; exciting day trips to Mayan ruins like the pyramid at Chichen Itza, with long staircases leading up to its temple; and Mesoamerica’s unique cuisine showcasing the culinary history of the Oaxaca region. Since then, when driving by Mi Lindo Cancún Grill, I’ve often wondered how much it had in common with its namesake. Now I regret not finding out sooner, because after an enchanted evening with Chef Roberto Robles, we rediscovered the magic of the Yucatan peninsula.
The fun began immediately; from the outside, an impressively decorated wooden door opens to reveal a small but beautiful, Mexican art-filled, inner chamber where a second door provides the access to this hidden treasure. Once inside—after being enthusiastically greeted by their friendly staff—we encountered their three distinct adventures. The first is the mouth-watering aroma of grilled meats and seared seafoods reminiscent of an outdoor barbeque. The second is an extension of its Mayan temple-themed décor along the walls—a colorful, framed exhibit of powdered sand beaches and turquoise water augmented by portraits depicting the Maya civilization’s spectacular achievements, complete with a large illustration of Chichen Itza. The third is a large guacamole station positioned at the front of the restaurant, where piles of fresh avocadoes sit next to containers bursting with ripe tomatoes, onions, limes, cilantro, jalapeños, and a variety of seasonings. Once an order comes in and a cook starts making the guacamole, the show begins!
Mi Lindo Cancún Grill offers a wide array of dishes and drinks from a seemingly endless menu of lunch and dinner choices as well as their legendary breakfast selections, such as Huevos con Chorizo and their popular Chilaquiles that feature corn tortillas, eggs, and grilled steak with queso fresco and Mexican crema. The restaurant also boasts an exotic drink menu highlighting Mexican beers, freshly made sangrias, and an extensive collection of themed mixed drinks including several types of mojitos and so many original margaritas that they list them in alphabetical order down an entire page—like “El Matador” made with 1800 Silver Tequila and Grand Marnier. We looked around and saw servers pouring iced tea around the room and ordered some for us, too.
Once our server Angel arrived with the tea and some puzzles and crayons for our sons (seven and four), he noticed our longing gazes at the guacamole station and suggested it as an appetizer; we agreed and added the Queso Dip. With a nod toward the station from Angel, we watched in awe as a cook began pounding all of the cart’s ingredients into an overflowing, ground stone bowl of green perfection that was delivered with several baskets of light, crispy, slightly salted tortilla chips cooked on the premises—all accompanied by their warm home-made salsa. The guacamole was flavorful and tangy while the mild salsa encompassed a superb mix of tomatoes, onions, and cilantro.
The Queso Dip soon arrived—a thick, velvety blend of creamy goodness with an infusion of southern Mexican flavors to stir your taste buds. Fans of the Queso Dip at Señor’s Chile in Edgewater—like my family—will recognize the recipe since Fredy Salmoran—from Oaxaca—owns both expanding franchises (a fifth Mi Lindo Cancun Grill in Laurel called Amigos Mexican Grill will have opened by the time you read this). Chef Roberto stopped by and described for us how everything he makes is from scratch, from his signature sauces to the light, fluffy tortillas available in both corn and flour.
Choosing our entrées was not easy; not only does the menu tease you with enticing pictures, you also get to watch the food arrive at other tables as you absorb the trail of sights and scents. First, we wanted to try the Mexican crema so we ordered the Camarones a la Crema, which was spectacular; jumbo shrimp sauteed in tequila with garlic, tomatoes, onions, and spices, cooked in a thick seafood broth and blended with heavy cream that coats the shrimp and kicks it into gear. The shrimp and the zesty sauce they’re swimming in were delicious.
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Next, the Marylander in us was intrigued by the Mexican crabcake in Frida’s Especial. Crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, it boasted crabmeat swirled with red and green peppers, onions, cilantro, and Mesoamerican-inspired seasonings. It was a delectable Oaxacan version of a local favorite and arranged on a wooden block alongside succulent bacon-wrapped shrimp, grilled ribeye steak, broiled tilapia, and seared scallops. The bacon was a wonderful, smoky complement to the shrimp it wrapped while the marbled ribeye steak, perfectly seasoned and grilled, exploded with flavor. The fresh tilapia was seared in a pan filled with butter that coated the entire fish and browned it on the edges, producing a juicy masterpiece that melted in our mouths. All of the meats were layered over a bed of crisp, roasted vegetables comprised of broccoli, zucchini, onions, and peppers—a combination of red, orange, yellow, and green—and served with a covered tray of corn tortillas.
The kids chose to split the Ground Beef Street Tacos and a basket of Chicken Tenders and Fries. The ground beef was the right level of not-too-spicy and mixed with lettuce, tomato, and sour cream inside flour tortillas. I feel compelled to emphasize that the Chicken Tenders aren’t a fast-food replica; they are batter dipped and fried golden brown and taste like a poultry version of fish and chips—light, airy, crispy on the outside and moist on the inside. Simply the best chicken tenders we’ve ever had.
Mi Lindo Cancún Grill also offers Mexican dessert favorites like Tres Leche and Chocolate Lava Cake; after all, the Maya and Aztec invented and perfected chocolate, which became a confectionary delight in Europe.
Over the years, my wife and I have often wondered how our children would have liked Cancun had they been born before we traveled there. Now, thanks to Mi Lindo Cancún Grill, we feel like we have offered them a taste. We can confidently say that Mi Lindo Cancún Grill offers a wonderful, participatory experience of savory Mesoamerican specialties, uniquely prepared by a creative chef in an eclectic atmosphere that transports you back in time to the days of the Maya.
Mi Lindo Cancún Grill 2134 Forest Drive, Annapolis | 410-571-0500 | lindocancungrill.com
Mark Croatti has worked across the country from Los Angeles to Washington, D.C., as a caterer, prep cook, and food server at both specialty restaurants and major chains, including preparing meals for major figures in the entertainment industry and professional sports.
