Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
If the name Fisherman’s Inn conjures up a vision of a salt-air-weathered shack draped in fish net you will be pleasantly surprised and charmed by reality. Colorful Crayola hues and clean geometric shapes are the dominant theme in the decor of Fisherman’s Village, where the Inn is the heart of an enterprise that started some 80-plus years ago. From Captain Alex Thomas and his wife Mae’s original 30-seat eatery and grocery store, the Inn has morphed into a marine enclave that includes a crab deck, a fresh seafood store, and most recently Hyatt Place. To study the history of the Inn is to observe a lesson in resilience. Through fires and economic challenges, the Inn has prospered to become both a local favorite and destination dining. Even those travelers making their annual beach trek stop here to indulge in some authentic Eastern Shore eating.
The restaurant’s good vibe continues on the inside with two spacious dining rooms and the Nauti Mermaid bar. The nautical theme is subtle; big round circles suggest port holes on an ocean liner, the carpet design undulates with wave-like motion, a giant copper and silver rockfish presides over happy diners. Vintage oyster cans interspersed with pictures of watermen at work pay homage to local seafood industry history.
Two unusual aspects of the eclectic decor are the elevated train, from the collection of the late owner Sonny Schulz, and the oyster plates from late owner Betty Schultz. I would encourage you to do as I did and take an unobtrusive stroll to see the oyster plates. Even if you are not a fan of “dishes” you cannot help admiring the beauty and artistry of these bygone elements of fine dining.
Now on to the food. The first challenge to be met was choosing from the abundant mouthwatering selections on the menu. Sometimes I will ask the server what dish they think reflects the best efforts of the kitchen. When I asked the question of our server Corey (who was great by the way), I expected him to answer with an S word; shrimp, scallops, or salmon. He surprised me by saying the most popular item was coconut cream pie!
After much dithering we settled on Oysters Rockefeller for an appetizer, seafood Alfredo, and a French dip sandwich. The Oysters Rockefeller (invented by Antoines restaurant in New Orleans and so named for the green spinach resemblance to the color of money) arrived picture perfect. The brine of the Nanticoke-sourced oysters was enhanced by a lemony forward Hollandaise. We were off to a good start. The seafood Alfredo was a generous serving of seafood-loaded pasta in a decadent sauce accompanied by garlic toast. My French dip sandwich was a feast of tender beef, and the dipping sauce was just right (I think some restaurants default to a beef bouillon cube which makes for a very salty dip). My order was accompanied by a side of delicious tangy and sweet cole slaw. I was pleased to note my slaw was served in a cold dish, helping to preserve its crispness—it’s the little touches that make a difference.
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
Photography by Stephen Buchanan
My second visit to the restaurant was for a Friday night dinner. Despite the early-hour and a grim weather forecast, the restaurant was bustling. I asked and was granted a table near the fireplace and adjacent to the large picture windows, which in daylight offer views of Kent Narrows. We started with a shared cup of oyster stew. The broth was creamy, rich, and so chockfull of oysters we were tempted to count them. It was a cut above the usual butter, cream, celery, Old Bay rendition. I chose prime rib for my entree. If this seems a strange choice in a seafood centric restaurant, it’s my way of noting how the kitchen addresses the appetites of those who may be vegetarian or not eat seafood. The prime cut was cooked to perfection, pink and tender. I added a baked potato and green beans which had a definite Eastern Shore flair with their bits of onion and bacon. My spouse chose Salmon Sunset, a salmon fillet draped over spinach and risotto. A skewer of shrimp crowned the dish in a very pretty presentation. Having been advised about the popularity of the coconut cream pie, I couldn’t leave without giving it a try. The pie slice is a mile high (or so it seemed) and escorted by a mountain of whipped cream. It was heavenly, feather light with just the right amount of sweetness and coconut crunch.
We did not sample any of the clever cocktails, deciding to save that treat for another day. The craft beer list is as commodious as the food menu, so you should have no problem grabbing your favorite brew.
I had two lovely meals at Fisherman’s Inn. If I had to analyze why this restaurant has survived and flourished, I would credit the family vision and commitment to providing diners with pleasant surroundings, friendly staff, and good Eastern Shore food.
Fisherman’s Inn • 3116 Main Street, Grasonville • 410-827-8807 • fishermansinn.com
Sharon Harrington is a retired social worker by profession and passionate gourmand/chef in practice, having trained with reputable culinary personalities and institutions, notably: Chef Francois Dinot; L’Académie de Cuisine; the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park; and Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. She currently resides on the Eastern Shore.
